Argentina Archives | Wine Enthusiast https://www.wineenthusiast.com/region/argentina/ Wine Enthusiast Magazine Tue, 23 Apr 2024 20:30:31 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2.5 The Best Argentine Malbec Wines to Buy Right Now https://www.wineenthusiast.com/ratings/wine-ratings/best-argentinian-malbec/ Thu, 18 Apr 2024 18:05:03 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/2021/09/08/best-malbecs-argentina-budget-friendly/ Vibrant reds that express terroir have joined the oaky, bold Argentine Malbecs of yesteryear, offering something for every kind of wine-lover. [...]

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Malbec is widely regarded as Argentina’s signature grape. The French varietal, which is permitted in Bordeaux blends and is a key grape in Cahors, is grown all across the South American nation in a wide array of styles. It “is cultivated extensively throughout Argentina, spanning from the northernmost to the southernmost, and from the eastern to the western regions,” says Jesica Vargas, Wine Enthusiast’s resident reviewer of South American wines.

In the north, regions like the Cafayate Valley have warm days, long growing seasons and high-altitude vineyards, which leads to robust, fruit-forward wines that are higher in alcohol. In the south, regions like Río Negro have cooler climates and short growing seasons. These Malbecs tend to be lighter with crisp acidity. The larger central wine regions of Argentina include Mendoza, La Rioja and San Juan. Vineyards bordering the mountains are planted at different elevations, which help to create a diversity of flavors and styles.

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“High-elevation Malbec is particularly noteworthy, with numerous winemakers growing vines in both established and emerging geographical indications, such as San Pablo in the Uco Valley, which sits above 3,860 feet,” says Vargas. The cool temperatures and rocky soils, which boast electrifying limestone, enable the production of wines with a fresher profile that’s aligned with current consumer preferences. These elegant bottles join a growing slew of selections that have been specially made to represent their place of origin. “The vibrant reds that are now being crafted in Argentina differ from those oaky bold Malbec of the past, with a new generation of winemakers using both traditional and modern techniques to achieve wines that express the terroir,” Vargas adds.

That’s not to say the bold and jammy wines that earned the country international acclaim are no longer on the table, “but now those wines are more balanced,” says Vargas. “There is a wide range of Malbec wines.”

To help you find the most impressive expressions of the increasingly diverse varietal, we tapped our experts to round up their favorite versions on the market. From splurge-worthy Editors’ Choice picks that will develop and evolve for years to come, to highly-rated bottles for under $30, here are the best Malbec wines from Argentina right now.

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Catena Zapata 2020 Nicasia Vineyard Malbec (Paraje Altamira)

Deliciously fresh aromas of mint leaf, dark fruit and nutmeg mixed with white pepper on the nose. The palate shows strength and a mineral texture. 2020 was a warm year, but this wine exhibits excellent acidity, driving mulberry, blackberries, oak spices and Mediterranean herbs through the flavorful finish. Enjoy now through 2033. Editors’ Choice. 94 Points — Jesica Vargas

$100 Wine.com

Altos Las Hormigas 2021 Jardin De Hormigas Meteora Malbec (Paraje Altamira)

Aromas of jarilla, rosemary, peppercorn and flint are followed by wild berries. The wine is full-bodied, with elegant tannins and silky texture. Bright ripe fruit flavors are enhanced by hints of licorice, dried herbs and black pepper that extend into a savory aftertaste. This is a delicious Malbec from the winery’s vineyards in Paraje Altamira, Uco Valley. Editors’ Choice. 94 Points — J.V.

$44 Vinous Reverie

Trivento 2018 Eolo Malbec (Mendoza)

Great complexity on the nose with enticing floral, blackberry, plum and subtle oak notes. This red is concentrated and lively with firm and silky tannins. The palate delivers plenty of dark fruit flavors with hints of smoke and nice acidity due to a smart use of oak. It is an elegant full-bodied wine made from 100 year old vines, and has a lingering finish with fruit flavors. 94 Points — J.V.

$100 WineOnSale.com

Antigal 2018 One Doña Angeles Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza)

Fresh berries join notes of cinnamon and cedar in the inviting nose of this single-vineyard Malbec. Polished, firm tannins and optimal acidity frame a well-balanced blend of nutmeg and plums that fills the mouth. Layers of herbs, black pepper and chocolate complement the silky palate. Drink now through 2033. 93 Points— J.V.

$ Varies Corks and Screws

Kaiken 2020 Mai Malbec (Mendoza)

Aromas of Jarilla, thyme and chalk serve as an introduction to this Malbec from high-altitude vineyards in Luján de Cuyo. Full-bodied, it features a solid structure holding fresh fruit flavors of blackberries. The palate is deep and smooth and includes hints of dried herbs, chocolate truffles, black pepper and nutmeg. 92 Points — J.V.

$ Varies Wine.com

Ruca Malen 2021 Capítulo Tres Malbec de Ánforas Malbec (Mendoza)

Pomegranate, blueberry and mulberry aromas make the nose attractive. Nice acidity energizes a full palate, where ripe black and red fruit flavors extend into the long finish. It has fine tannins and a good structure. 90 Points — J.V.

$54 Black Bear Wines & Spirits

Clos d’Argentine 2020 Winemaker’s Selection Gran Reserva Malbec (Mendoza)

This wine offers dried cherries on the nose. It’s a juicy Malbec, with a fruit-forward and well-structured palate. Supported by ripe tannins, chocolate and dried herbs add an extra layer of flavors that lengthen the enjoyable finish. 91 Points — J.V.

$65 GetWineOnline

Magna Montis 2022 Malbec (Paraje Altamira)

After a few minutes in the glass, this wine opens up and features hints of herbs on the nose that repeat on the palate. Subtle notes of oregano and bay leaf followed by dried rose petals and hints of cranberry are backed by chalky tannins. Moderate acidity adds freshness to a persistent herbal finish. 90 Points — J.V.

$ Varies Wild Child

Viña Cobos 2021 Bramare Malbec (Luján de Cuyo)

The winery was founded by Paul Hobbs in 1998. The winemaker and his local team focus on Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, two grapes that love Mendoza’s terroir. This is a balanced Malbec, with notes of raspberry and oak-driven aromas. It delivers flavors of cherry jam, mulberry, herbs and vanilla bean. Excellent acidity infuses energy to the palate, as round tannins provide support. Editors’ Choice. 91 Points — J.V.

$49 Wine.com

Marcelo Pelleriti 2020 Signature Malbec (Uco Valley)

Delicate aromas of berries and violets interact with herbs and a dash of pink pepper. It’s a silky Malbec with elegant tannins and a fruit-focused palate, where a balanced dose of spices and leafy notes adds to its complexity. Plum, blackberry, rosemary, peppercorn and cinnamon extend into the finish. 92 Points — J.V.

$29 Maison Mura

Luca 2021 Paraje Altamira Malbec (Uco Valley)

There is balance in this fruit-forward Malbec of smooth texture. The nose has subtle notes of chalk and thyme. Flavors of raspberries, plums, blackberries, thyme and spices flow through the palate, disappearing slowly in the aftertaste. 92 Points — J.V.

$29 Drink Pourtal

Monteviejo 2020 Petite Fleur Malbec (Uco Valley)

There is a delicate perfume of fresh plums and roses on the nose. This is balanced and expressive, with fine tannins. Cranberry, blueberry, cinnamon and nutmeg mix on the silky palate. It’s a wonderful combination of quality and value. 92 Points — J.V.

$22 Michael’s Wine Cellar

Bodegas Caro 2022 Aruma Malbec (Mendoza)

A fragrant nose of cassis prepares the palate for flavors of black fruit. Plums and blackberries show ripeness and mix with chocolate notes. This is a full-bodied red, with tight tannins. 90 Points — J.V.

$23 WineOnSale.com

Zuccardi 2021 Poligonos Del Valle de Uco Malbec (Paraje Altamira)

An aromatic nose of violets, cherry and pomegranate mixed with notes of rosemary and peppercorn after a few minutes. The palate is structured and fresh, with round tannins backing cranberry and other tart fruits. It has a lasting peppery finish and good acidity. 92 Points — J.V.

$30 Wine.com

Famiglia Mosso 2020 Malbec (Mendoza)

This wine encourages small sips to enjoy its full and ripe character. There is an inviting aroma of plum jam and a dash of salt. It’s rich but has nice acidity, lifting flavors of blackberry, chocolate and licorice. 91 Points — J.V.

$30 Copa Fina

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The Best Wineries (and More) to Visit in Mendoza, Argentina https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/travel/mendoza-travel-guide/ Mon, 15 Apr 2024 23:07:23 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=175532 Luxury hotels, internationally acclaimed restaurants and an endless supply of Malbec are just a few of the reasons to visit Mendoza right now. [...]

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When most people think of Argentina, three words often come to mind: Messi, Mendoza and Malbec. While meeting soccer star Leo Messi may be difficult, it’s relatively easy to explore the exciting city of Mendoza. In this bustling city in the Cuyo region of central Argentina, you can sip through hundreds of variations of its best-known varietal, Malbec.

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In recent years, Mendoza has seen the growth of luxury hotels, wine bars, internationally recognized restaurants and other gourmet experiences. With more than 200 wineries open to guests, there’s never been a better time to go. Here’s a list of the best places to visit and some tips from a local to help you make the most of your time there.

The colours of a warm autumn day in Mendoza, Argentina
Getty Images

The Best Time to Visit

There is nothing quite like autumn in Mendoza. The golden yellow leaves of poplar trees and grapevines in the vineyards during this season are absolutely stunning.

Fall starts in March, which is the peak of the harvest season. It’s usually during this month that tourists and locals can attend La Fiesta de la Vendimia, or the harvest festival, which includes a parade and a musical show in an open-air theater situated in hills just outside Mendoza city. During Easter week, there is also a series of classical music concerts in select wineries, which feature violinists, pianists and cellists playing among the oak barrels. Springtime is a splendid season, too, since it’s when vines start coming out of dormancy.

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Travelers visit the city all year round and there’s no wrong time to go. “There is no off-season in Mendoza anymore, we only have mid and high seasons now,” says Claudia Yanzon, Mendoza’s tourism director. When we spoke, she was arranging for a visit from the president of the Ibero-American Academy of Gastronomy—an influential organization that recently named Mendoza the Ibero-American Capital of Gastronomy and Wine

Bodegas Salentein
Image Courtesy of Bodegas Salentein

Where to Taste

Renacer, a small winery nestled in Pedriel, Lujan de Cuyo, is a prime example of the region’s gastronomic excellence. Surrounded by organic vineyards and bucolic stone walls, the Tuscan-style winery has a Michelin-recommended restaurant overlooking a large pond. It also has a solid selection of well-made wines. Make sure to sample its Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Milamore, a unique red blend made through the “appassimento” process in which grapes are dried to create full-bodied wines packed with intense fruit and balanced acidity. Guests can taste these excellent selections through various tourism packages that range from vineyard and barrel room tours to a wine and tango experience with professional dancers.

Another winery that offers visitors more than standard wine tasting is Santa Julia. At the sprawling winery, guests can cycle through its organic vineyards and olive trees before sipping Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and more. The family-owned winery also offers equally delightful Zuelo olive oil tastings and cooking classes for kids and adults at the onsite restaurant, which is hailed for its seasonal produce fire-roasted in clay ovens.

Bodegas Salentein, in the Uco Valley, was built during the region’s modern winery wave of the late ’90s and early 2000s and offers some of the most unique experiences in the area. It’s a must-visit for those who love wine and design. Guests can explore its cultural center, Killka, which features a curated collection of local art. Outdoors, visitors will want to check out the beautiful chapel, inspired by traditional Andean architecture, while walking along a vine-lined path to the winery, which utilizes a gravity-fed winemaking system. Not to be missed is its stunning underground cellar, which doubles as a concert venue during the Musica Clásica por los Caminos del Vino festival, and its restaurant, which serves traditional Argentine fare, like empanadas cooked in a clay oven.

Angélica Cocina Maestra
Image Courtesy of Angélica Cocina Maestra

Where to Eat and Drink

The culinary scene in Malbec country is grabbing the attention of tastemakers. Last November, the Michelin Guide expanded to include Mendoza and bestowed a coveted one-star rating to four restaurants, plus a green star to an additional three establishments.

Naturally, restaurants at wineries are especially strong at food and wine pairings. For example, Catena Zapata’s restaurant, Angélica Cocina Maestra, has a wine-first concept that makes wine the star rather than an accompaniment. Unlike traditional wine pairing menus, the experience often starts with bold reds (pay special attention to the outstanding Addriana Vineyard Malbec) before moving to vibrant whites, like the complex Addriana Vineyard White Bones Chardonnay or the elegant White Stones. Then it switches back and forth between styles. Dishes epitomize the region’s hearty fare, such as a smoky charcoal-roasted pork pancetta with green apple chutney.

Another must-visit is the Zuccardi Valle de Uco restaurant Piedra Infinita Cocina. The pairing menu highlights regional ingredients and dishes like tortita Mendocina, a local biscuit served with Arauco olive oil and black pepper, and grilled steak cooked to medium-rare perfection. It’s paired with their terroir-driven Aluvional Paraje Altamira Malbec whose freshness, mineral texture and fruity character make it an excellent match to the mouthwatering Argentine staple.

“Mendocinian cuisine is based on new techniques that allow us to understand and value our regional produce,” says chef Santiago Maestre who also explores hyperlocal ingredients of Luján de Cuyo, including meats, cheeses and local olive oil (a pillar of Mendoza’s cuisine) in his menu at La Vid in Bodega Norton. His set menus feature dishes matched with picks from the winery, such as ribeye with Cabernet Franc-blend Lote Negro. The aromatic and lively Altura Semillon accompanies octopus seasoned with lemon, ginger, mustard, Boniato and black garlic. The wine’s subtle citrus and saline notes enhance the flavors of the dish.

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Although most high-end restaurants in Mendoza are in wineries, the city has many destination-worthy options, too. In the city center, Azafrán offers a contemporary take on traditional cuisine, with dishes like Mendoza-style Tomaticán stew, a traditional vegetable dish made from tomato and corn, and black rice with trout and apple.

República Bistró, owned by the “Messi of Wines,” Alejandro Vigil is located on bustling Aristides Street. The restaurant features both an à la carte and a pairing menu, with hearty offerings such as pastas, beef Milanese and beet risotto served alongside his El Enemigo wines. The wine list also includes a wide selection from other renowned local producers.

For breakfast, or a mint-infused lemonade in the afternoon, stop by the Bröd Bakery’s outpost near Plaza Independencia to enjoy freshly baked goods, such as croissants and alfajores, on its enchanting patio. Though the bakery has multiple locations throughout the city, this one is inside an old building that is also home to a large wine shop and a brewery that serves cheeses and charcuterie. It’s a perfect spot to relax after a morning of hiking or tasting.

An even more laid-back meal option is to picnic at one of the wineries, many of which offer packages that allow guests to snack among the vines while admiring breathtaking views. One of them is the family-run Bodega Bressia, which offers a garden picnic package of cold cuts, olives, homemade bread, chipa (cheese rolls), dips and more. It comes with a bottle of wine per two guests. Go for the Lágrima Canela 2020, an elegant blend of 70% Chardonnay, 30% Semillon.

SB Winemakers House and Spa Suites
Image Courtesy of SB Winemakers House and Spa Suites

Where to Stay

Waking up and looking at the snowy peaks of Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Southern and Western Hemispheres, is a breathtaking experience. From spa hotels to glamping, there are plenty of options that accommodate such a view—among vines, no less.

Gaia Lodge, a small yet vibrant hotel with seven rooms and a lounge, is a standout. Located adjacent to Domaine Bousquet, one of the largest producers of organic wines in Argentina, it’s a place where guests are immediately immersed in the winery activity from the moment they wake up. From your balcony, you can see the winemakers pruning the vines and handpicking grapes during harvest. (And if you want to get your hands dirty, guests can assist in making biodynamic compost.) “Guests have an unforgettable experience in contact with nature, surrounded by the magnificence of the Andes and our organic vineyards,” says Labid Ameri, co-founder of Domaine Bousquet and the proprietor of Gaia Lodge.

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Other options include Chozos Resort in city of Luján de Cuyo, where many rooms are housed in small dwellings with unique domed ceilings inspired by Andean structures. Alternatively, opt for one of the “Glam Camps,” a set of igloo-like structures with all-around views of the neighboring vineyards.

There’s also the new spa hotel Susana Balbo Unique Stays, from renowned winemaker of the same name, located in Luján de Cuyo’s small but enchanting Chacras de Coria district. The boutique hotel is intimate—it only has seven luxury suites—all outfitted with relaxation-minded amenities like a sensation shower, oversized soaking tub and massage tables for in-room massages. In the restaurant, elevated Argentinian fare pairs exquisitely with the impossibly well-curated list of bottles featuring Balbo’s wines and other local bottlings, which, given the hotel’s credentials, makes perfect sense.

Spending the night in the Uco Valley? The Vines Resort and Spa does the trick with its nearly two dozen sleek villas, all of which boast private patios, luxe bathrooms and kitchens stocked with treats. Don’t forget to book a meal at the property’s restaurant, which is overseen by pioneering open-fire chef Francis Mallmann. The 16-room Casa de Uco, set in a 790-acre vineyard estate, is also an excellent choice. Rooms are thoroughly modern and sleek with plenty of polished concrete; some villas are situated in the vines and are outfitted with private rooftop hot tubs.

View of Mendoza city
Getty Images

Travel Tips

The main wine regions such as Luján de Cuyo and Maipú are about 20 minutes from the city, while a ride to the Uco Valley will take at least an hour. This is why most visitors opt to rent a car or book a private tour to visit wineries. There is also a wine bus, called Bus Vitivinícola, with a hop-on and hop-off service that takes you to the main valleys with the option of visiting up to four wineries a day.

Remember to reserve tastings in advance as many wineries and restaurants are usually booked or do not accept walk-ins.

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What Lies Beneath: How Geology Is Transforming South American Winemaking https://www.wineenthusiast.com/basics/advanced-studies/south-america-geology/ Wed, 14 Feb 2024 18:22:33 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=167016 South American producers may not have centuries’ worth of knowledge about their vineyards, but soil analyses are proving a useful shortcut. [...]

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Terroir is more than just a buzzword these days. Across Argentina and Chile (and many other parts of the globe) winemakers have increasingly shifted their focus toward wines that express a unique sense of place. But understanding true terroir requires a deeper understanding of what’s secreted beneath the earth’s surface—and expertise that goes well beyond what’s taught in most viticultural programs.  

To fill in those knowledge gaps, many producers have turned to geologists.  

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“Geologists specialize in studying soils and their evolution,” says geologist Eder González, who has been working with wineries across Chile since 2010. Though these scientists “don’t tell winemakers what, how or where to plant vines,” oftentimes, winemakers and growers make key planting decisions based on their findings. “We can provide detailed insights into how the geology, rocks and hills surrounding their vineyards have evolved.” 

Such knowledge has translated to a growing number of single-vineyard labels, which hail from geologist-identified sites able to produce wines with distinctive characteristics. The influence of geologists, many argue, is changing the game for Chilean and Argentinian wineries, helping them reach new levels of excellence and sustainability

Soil of Alto Jahuel
Image Courtesy of Alto Jahuel Vineyards

The Secret’s in the Soil 

Geologists’ central mission is to segment and classify vineyards. They harness a plethora of lab tests, soil pits and other tools to do so, singling out layers of sediment, rock and other geological features. 

For example, Gonzalez explains, he might want to know why the clay content differs in two different plots of land, despite having the same bedrock, or why some rivers created alluvial terraces while others did not. 

In some cases, these surveys have prompted the development of new wine regions. One example is Limarí Valley in northern Chile, where Gonzalez and other experts studied the abundance of limestone soils in some areas. This soil type is associated with desirable characteristics in wine, such as vibrancy and mineral texture. Limarí Valley is now recognized as one of the world’s top regions for white wines, with prominent producers such as Viña Santa Rita and Concha y Toro sourcing Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc from it. 

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Geologists are also helping the continent’s more well-established destinations grow further afield. In Mendoza, Argentina, the expansion of vineyards from the lowlands in the east to the higher altitude regions of Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley, which began about 30 years ago, was driven by wineries’ search for cooler temperatures. But the move brought new challenges and opportunities for professionals like geophysicist Guillermo Corona, creator of the Instagram account @geografiadelvino and author of the book Geografía del Vino

“As winemakers moved closer to the mountains, they encountered more stony and heterogeneous soils,” Corona says. Over the last decade, his geology research helped many wineries pinpoint the best sites to grow grapes. “If someone wants to find the best place to plant vines, and within that place, find the best patchwork of land, then they need to study the soil,” he says.  

Teresita on Calicata at Alto Jahuel
Image Courtesy of Alto Jahuel Vineyards

A New Approach to Winemaking 

The benefits of understanding soil composition go well beyond texture and structure. It also has the potential to improve sustainability—specifically in the realm of water management. Knowing how soils retain moisture can help viticulturists more precisely determine the correct amount of water to deliver each vine. 

“Irrigation in vineyards with clay soil is different from those with stony soil,” says winemaker Teresita Ovalle of Viña Santa Rita, one of the largest wineries in Chile. Clay soils, for instance, retain more water than those with a higher percentage of gravel. Therefore, vines in clay soils need to be irrigated for shorter periods compared to vines on rocky soils. This not only helps wineries save water, an increasingly precious natural resource, but can also reduce energy costs. 

After working with geologists, Ovalle decided to separately vinify grapes from various geologically superior sites. Each area produced a high-quality wine with different characteristics—some muscular and tannic, others more elegant.  

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“The tannins and structure of wine are determined by the place where the vines grow,” says Ovalle. “In our Alto Jahuel vineyards in Maipo Valley, we can compare a Cabernet Sauvignon that grows on colluvial soils in the hills with one that grows on alluvial soils. The latter has silky and rounder tannins than the wine that comes from the hill.”  

Another geology convert is Andrea Ferreyra, winemaker at La Celia, which was founded in 1890 in Argentina’s Uco Valley. Though she has long believed in a holistic approach to viticulture and winemaking, geology has only recently become an integral component of her work.  

“We used to think of Uco as a region with higher altitude, a cool climate, more rainfall compared to other regions and a large diurnal temperature range,” says Ferreyra. “But we didn’t stop to think about what lies beneath the ground—currently, we consider everything as a whole.”  

To date, around 30% of the soil on La Celia’s estate vineyards has been analyzed. Those studies have already paid off: Last year was one of Argentina’s most challenging harvests, with grapes ripening unevenly due to frost. But fruit harvested from one of Ferreyra’s soil-analyzed vineyards proved her saving grace. Using knowledge from the study, she managed each plot separately as best suited them, monitoring the vines’ vigor and carefully calibrating the amount of water delivered. Even in a bad year, it yielded notably good fruit—albeit in lower quantities than had the frost not occurred. Still, in a sense, the soil analysis proved something of an insurance policy. 

Vinedos Valle del Maipo
Image Courtesy of Alto Jahuel Vineyards

Looking to the Future 

The work of geologists in South America has helped the continent’s wine industries to advance substantially over recent years—but their work is far from over. Both scientists and winemakers continue to strive for a deeper understanding of each subregion and appellation. 

“Vineyards in places like Mendoza won’t [physically] expand much more due to the lack of water,” says Corona. In other words, in general, producers won’t be able to find new sites to plant vines. But if they’re able to better utilize the resources they do have on hand—the soil, for example—they may be able to increase the quality of their products and make more terroir-driven wines. “What we need to do now is to continue studying each region in detail to fully understand it,” he says. 

Unlike those in Old World wine regions, producers in South America may not have centuries’ worth of knowledge about their vineyards. But geology is helping them gain a deeper understanding of their land and its possibilities. Already, high-quality bottlings have proved that knowledge is power. 

“The more information and data we have, the better decisions we can make,” says González. 

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All About Asado, Argentina’s Iconic Wood-Grilled Beef https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/asado-beef/ Tue, 06 Dec 2022 23:15:14 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/2022/12/06/asado-beef/ This iconic cut of meat is perfect to showcase the varied wines of South America. [...]

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It might be summer in Argentina right now, but a hearty beef parrillada (or mixed grill) is the country’s favorite meal year-round. Along with Uruguay, Argentina consumes the most beef per capita of any country in the world, usually around 100 lbs. a year per person, depending on your source.

“In Argentina, asado is a tradition whose rituals, mysteries and lore rival any organized religion,” says John Manion, the Brazil-raised chef-owner of Chicago’s El Che Steakhouse & Bar, which interprets asado for U.S. diners. “It harkens back to the gauchos raising cattle on the pampa, and it permeates nearly every facet of society.”

Wood fire and smoke are crucial to asado, which the home griller can achieve by letting hardwood burn down to coal, or using lump charcoal to begin with. A gas grill won’t cut it, no matter how powerful. Asados are often cooked over fire pits with the meat hanging on large tripods or angled iron crosses, but even a simple Weber kettle grill can work well.

“You don’t need a bunch of fancy equipment—I’ve literally seen a person grill over box springs in a park in Buenos Aires,” says Manion. “The key here is to position your coals on one side of the grill, then place your meat on the other side and let it cook low and slow. Asado should have a leisurely pace.”

Manion suggests adding unsoaked chunks of hardwood, such as hickory or oak, to the coals to create additional fire and smoke. “When the meat reaches an internal temperature of roughly 100°F you can finish it off over the ripping hot coals, making sure to let it rest before serving.”

The Meat

In Argentina, beef is almost always grass-fed, which is leaner than grain-fed beef, but butchered to maximize fat rather than trimming it away. Importantly, the fat on grass-fed beef is rich in omega-3 fatty acids and beta-carotene, giving it a yellow tint and fantastic flavor compared to the relatively bland white fat on grain-fed feedlot cattle.

grilled meats on a table with wine outside
Photography: Tara Donne / Food Styling: Chris Lanier / Prop Styling: Christina Lane

Here are some of the key cuts of beef for a traditional Argentinian asado with U.S. equivalents, although since cows are butchered differently in Argentina than the U.S., these are approximations.

Asado de tira (Short Rib): If you’ve had Korean galbi, you’ve had asado de tira. In the U.S. it’s usually slow-braised until falling off the bone, but when cut thin, it’s one of the best grilling cuts, with tenderizing fat but a toothsome texture and full beefy flavor. Ask your butcher for “flanken-cut” short ribs.

Vacío (Flap Steak): This is also called bavette in many butcher shops. It’s very similar to flank steak, but with better marbling for a richer texture. It has hearty flavor, but can be tough if cooked beyond medium.

Matambre (Rose Meat): Called rose meat for its pale color when raw, this is also very popular in Mexican taquerias as suadero. It’s cut from a muscle that runs from the chuck to the flank and is often stuffed and rolled as a dish called matambre arrollado.

Entraña (Outside Skirt): A favorite for its rich beefy flavor, entraña can be tough, and should be cut across the grain into thin strips for serving.

Bife de chorizo (Strip Steak): Cut from the short loin, you might find this labeled as New York or Kansas City strip, or, in other countries, sirloin or striploin. It’s the part of the T-bone or porterhouse that isn’t the tenderloin.

Lomo (Tenderloin): While tenderloin is highly regarded in much of the world (where cuts from the small end are labeled filet mignon), its extreme tenderness and mild flavor isn’t as revered in Argentina, where flavor reigns.

Ojo de bife (Ribeye): This rich, well-marbled cut isn’t cheap, but it’s a major crowd pleaser. It’s also hard to overcook—perfect for groups with a wide preference range of doneness. Ojo de bife usually refers to a ribeye steak cut from the prime rib roast, aka bife ancho.

Picaña (Coulotte): Ubiquitous in Brazil (where it’s called picanha), picaña is also popular in Argentina for its mix of tenderness with beefy flavor. It’s sometimes called rump cap or top sirloin cap, as it lies above the top sirloin and rump parts of the cow. Ask your butcher to leave the fat cap on.

Colita de cuadril (Tri-Tip): This is a small triangular roast cut from the sirloin that is finding more favor in the U.S. The Newport steak is cut from the tri-tip. It can be cooked low and slow, or seared over high heat to medium-rare. Slice across the grain to serve.

Chorizo (Fresh Sausage): These are usually pork and beef (sometimes just pork), coarsely ground or minced, seasoned with wine, garlic, and paprika. Mexican longaniza isn’t the same (it’s all pork, moister and sharper in flavor), but is a readily available substitute.

Morcilla (Blood Sausage): In Argentina, blood sausage is usually bulked out with rice or other grains, which softens the rich flavor of the pork blood. They also usually feature “warm” spices like cumin, cinnamon, nutmeg and clove. As they are pre-cooked in the production process, they just need to be heated through on the grill.

Mollejas (Sweetbreads): Mollejas are the most popular of the achuras (offal), along with chinchulines (small intestines) and riñones (kidneys). In Argentina, mollejas are almost always from the veal thymus gland (in U.S. butcher shops, you might see sweetbreads from lamb, and from the pancreas). Finish over high heat to create a charred crust that contrasts with their soft fatty interiors. Buy mollejas from a very reliable source and cook the same day you buy them.

Salsas Para Asado

Both these sauces are traditional—and delicious—with asado. Make both for more variety and color on the table.

steak
Photography: Tara Donne / Food Styling: Chris Lanier / Prop Styling: Christina Lane

Salsa Criolla

Mince as small as possible: 1 medium red onion, 1 yellow bell pepper, 1 red bell pepper, 2 Roma tomatoes, 1 clove garlic. Mix with ½ teaspoon ground cumin, ½ teaspoon ground black pepper, 1 cup olive oil, ½ cup cider vinegar, and salt to taste. Refrigerate at least two hours before serving.

Chimichurri

Place in a food processor: 1 packed cup parsley, 3 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves, 4 cloves garlic, ½ cup olive oil, ¼ cup cider vinegar, 1 teaspoon paprika, ½ teaspoon kosher salt. Pulse until uniform but not quite puréed. Taste and add more salt, if necessary.

appetizers
Photography: Tara Donne / Food Styling: Chris Lanier / Prop Styling: Christina Lane

Entradas

Given the plethora of beef in a typical asado, it might seem excessive to add appetizers to the mix, but then your guests would be seriously missing out.

Provoleta

Provoleta is just a grilled slab of cheese, but the trick is getting a crisp browned crust without the cheese completely falling apart or melting through the grill grates. This is compounded by the fact that American provolone is usually younger and moister than Argentinian provoleta. If possible, let your cheese slices dry on a rack for a few hours before grilling, which will help create a protective crust. Ask for cut 1/2-inch thick rounds of provolone. Place a large cast iron pan or griddle on the hottest part of the grill for insurance. Brush cheese with olive oil and sprinkle with dried oregano and pimentón (or Spanish paprika). Grill directly on the grill grates until bottoms are browned and crisp. Flip (onto pan if cheese is falling apart) and cook the other side until browned. Serve immediately.

Empanadas

Empanadas can be filled with beef or chicken or mozzarella cheese mixed with onion, corn or greens. Thaw storebought puff pastry and roll into sheets about 1/8-inch thick. Cut into 5- to 6-inch circles. Add filling generously to one half of each circle, moisten edges, fold over and press to seal. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake at 400°F for 20–25 minutes or until golden brown.

Beef Empanada Filling: Cook 1 cup minced onion over medium heat until golden brown. While onion cooks, combine 1 lb. ground or minced beef chuck, 2 tablespoons lard, ¼ cup sliced green olives, 2 minced scallions, 1 tablespoon smoked paprika, and 1 teaspoon ground cumin in a bowl with your hands. Add to the onion and cook until the beef is almost cooked through. Salt and pepper generously to taste, and refrigerate until cold before filling empanadas.

Choripán

The name says it all: Chorizo and bread (pan). Grill fat, fresh Argentinian chorizo (or Mexican longaniza) and place in a section of baguette cut to the link length and split horizontally. Cut the chorizo lengthwise in the bun so any juices soak into the bread. Add chimichurri generously to taste. If serving as an appetizer, cut into bite-size sections. Choripán is also a good use of leftover chorizo or morcilla (aka “morcipán”).

bottles of wine for pairing with grilled meats
Photography: Tara Donne / Food Styling: Chris Lanier / Prop Styling: Christina Lane

The Wine

Malbec

Malbec is a wine that never fails when paired with a good Argentinian asado,” says Sergio Casé, winemaker for Trapiche in Mendoza, Argentina. “Of course, there are different types of Malbecs,” he adds, referring to young versus aged, oaked or not, as well as the various altitudes and microclimates. This, he says, “allows a great variety of options when choosing a dish: not just grilled beef, but lamb pork, or dark-meat poultry, empanadas and even roasted vegetables, pastas and semi-hard cheeses. For asado, in my opinion, Malbec goes best with leaner and thinner meats, such as entraña or asado de tira.”

Cabernet Sauvignon

“Argentinian Cabernet is unique due to the fact that our terroir is located in high altitude areas with great diurnal variation,” says Casé. “This makes the Cabernet ripen slowly and maintain acidity, for fresh notes of black fruit, cassis and subtle spices, while the palate is full-bodied, broad and with good concentration. Cabernet goes better with cuts that have higher fat content because it has stronger tannins compared with the tannins of a good Malbec. I particularly like it with mollejas or bife de chorizo.”

Torrontés

Torrontés is the best way to start your asado in my opinion,” says Alex Cuper, wine director for El Che Steakhouse & Bar, of Argentina’s signature white wine. “It’s floral and crisp, with a fantastic minerality. It also happens to pair so well with everything at the start of an asado like empanadas and provoleta. It also happens to be an amazing pairing with any and all shellfish, even if that may not be a traditional asado dish.”

Chardonnay

“Argentinian Chardonnay is South America’s best kept secret,” says Cuper. “The high elevation, rocky soils, and intense temperature shifts create the ideal climate for Chardonnay, and the minimal use of new oak, or oak in general, helps make these wines unique. It gives the wine a really crisp, clean and elegant quality.” Cuper recommends tossing seafood on the grill as an excuse to open Argentinian Chardonnay. “They go well with all seafood, but especially shellfish. A good Argentinian Chardonnay with oysters gives ‘Chablis’ vibes to the pairing without the higher price point.”

What About Tannat?

“Uruguayans love beef and grill a lot of it, and Tannat is their rebuttal to Malbec or Cabernet,” says Cuper. “It’s big and bold, with a great tannin structure and we use it a lot at El Che to break guests out of their Cabernet routine. Tannat is a French grape in origin, usually with aggressive sharp tannins, used as a blending grape in small amounts. However, the climate in Uruguay helps soften those tannins and turn it into a really great monovarietal. I usually gravitate to fattier and richer cuts with Tannat.”

This article originally appeared in the Best of Year 2022 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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This Experimental Malbec Style Is Becoming a Hot Trend in Argentina https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/wine/malbec-style-argentina/ Thu, 23 Dec 2021 17:15:30 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/2021/12/23/malbec-style-argentina/ Argentine Malbec we're used to seeing is fuller bodied with hefty oak. The next wave, however, is a bit more restrained and lighter in style. [...]

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Argentine Malbec is evolving. Lighter, leaner, unoaked Malbec wines with fresh red- and black-fruit aromas, higher acidity and mineral characteristics are increasingly popular. The style shift is a result of some winemakers’ search for the true expression of the grape and terroir.

To achieve this new style of Malbec, Argentine winemakers focus on the time of harvest, climate and soil type, among other factors, with a tendency toward a low-intervention approach overall.

In the Vineyards

“We know that a good wine is born in the vineyards,” says Raúl Dávalos Rubio, CEO at Bodega Tacuil.

The winery is in the Calchaquí Valleys, Argentina’s northern wine region, located at 7,874–8,858 feet above sea level. Since the 1980s, Rubio’s father has advocated for producing wines without oak contact to allow the fruit to express itself. He is considered a pioneer in this movement, and Raúl continues his legacy.

Managing a vineyard at that elevation, with high sunlight exposure and wide daily thermal amplitude, or diurnal temperature swings, is not easy.

Los Indios vineyard at Dona Paula
Los Indios vineyard / Photo by Gustavo Sabez Mico

“It is important for us to harvest when the grapes reach the right level of ripeness,” says Rubio. “Since we don’t use oak barrels, we need the tannins to be matured enough.”

Overripening is something that every winemaker wants to avoid. At the same time, it is crucial to evaluate the maturity of the skin and seeds.

Underripe grapes can also be a problem. As Martín Kaiser, viticulturist and winemaker at Mendoza-based Doña Paula winery puts it, “I like fresh wines, but I don’t like green wines!”

Kaiser’s work explores soil types and the influence that terroir has on a wine’s flavor profile.

“To achieve fresher wines, we need to focus on the evolution of the grape’s acidity,” says Kaiser. “If harvesting is done too soon, then we might obtain a wine that would be very light-bodied and has astringent tannins.”

The Place of Origin

Where grapes are grown plays a fundamental role in producing a fresher style of Malbec. To achieve a good balance, some producers consider higher elevations.

“By getting closer to the mountains, we can grow vines at higher altitudes in cooler climates but with sunlight,” says Sebastián Zuccardi.

Zuccardi is the winemaker at his Mendoza-based family estate, Zuccardi Valle de Uco, and one of the leaders in this style movement. The winery’s portfolio includes Malbec from the most lionized subregions in the Uco Valley, such as Paraje Altamira, Gualtallary, San Pablo and Los Chacayes.

amphora room
Zuccardi amphora room / Photo by Federico Garcia

When discussing place of origin for grapes, soil type is an important component. Zuccardi says a combination of granite and calcareous soils from those subregions helps him achieve “wines with texture.” He looks for “balanced and vibrant wines” whose flavors are influenced by their place of origin.

An adaptable variety, Malbec readily expresses its terroir. Zuccardi explains that the French grape arrived in Argentina in 1853, and since then, many generations of producers have improved winegrowing techniques for the variety.

Kaiser adds that, when talking about adaptability at an international level, Malbec is not as versatile as varieties such as Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon. However, at a national level, the opposite is true.

“We find excellent Malbec in places like the Alto Valle del Río Negro, Patagonia, at 820 feet or higher up on the Calchaquí Valleys over 8,200 feet,” says Kaiser.

winery grapes from Doña Paula
Malbec grapes at Doña Paula

In a study for Doña Paula and other wineries titled Characterization of Argentinian Wines, Kaiser discovered that the intensity of floral aromas increases from north to south through Argentina’s wine regions. Also, spice aromas are more likely to be present in Malbec-based wines from warmer climates. He learned that although the type of soil influences the aromas of wine, it mainly affects the texture of the tannins.

Studies such as this and the work that producers do independently in their vineyards, many of whom are shifting to organic and biodynamic grape-growing practices, prove the desire of Argentine winemakers to show the world the diversity of the country’s wine regions and their potential for stylistic variety and unique terroir-driven expression.

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Nine Cab Francs That Show Argentina Is More Than Malbec https://www.wineenthusiast.com/ratings/wine-ratings/best-argentina-cabernet-franc-guide/ Wed, 16 Jun 2021 15:22:38 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/2021/06/16/best-argentina-cabernet-franc-guide/ Argentine Cab Franc thrives in the country's cool or high-altitude vineyards. Here are some of our favorites for $40 or less. [...]

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Argentina is known for its stellar Malbec and for good reason. But the country also adopted another Bordeaux variety that has found success: Cabernet Franc.

Unlike Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc thrives in Argentina’s cooler or high-altitude vineyards across the country, especially along the Andes. This red grape even produces wines that are richer and more voluptuous than those found in regions like the Loire and still displays the tell-tale green pepper and herbal tones that are the variety’s signature.

Here are nine of our favorite Argentine Cab Francs to try.

Zorzal 2017 Eggo Franco Cabernet Franc (Tupungato); $30, 90 points. Dusty cherry and berry aromas are earthy and highly natural, with no overripe notes or oak. A full, ripe palate offers fine balance between weight and elegance, while this tastes of clean black fruits prior to a finish with dry tannins. This is fresh and exact, with little of the herbal character that often comes with Cabernet Franc. Drink through 2025. Brazos Wine Imports. —Michael Schachner

Zuccardi 2018 Poligonos del Valle de Uco San Pablo Cabernet Franc (Uco Valley); $30, 93 points. This racy Cabernet Franc from winemaker Sebastián Zuccardi is made entirely in concrete. Plum and berry tones are full and fresh on the nose and palate, while flavors of black fruit, herbs, tea and tomato linger on the smooth finish. Drink through 2024. Winesellers, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —M. S.

Casarena 2017 Single Vineyard Lauren’s Vineyard Agrelo Cabernet Franc (Luján de Cuyo); $30, 92 points. Tightly wound black fruit aromas come with tension as opposed to being overripe and overoaked. This Cab Franc is lively and powerful, with tolerable tartaric scratchiness. Ripe berry, cassis and dark plum flavors are lightly spiced prior to a lusty but short finish with a touch of heat. Drink through 2025. Vine Connections. —M.S.

Finca Decero 2017 Decero Mini Ediciones Remolinos Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Agrelo); $39, 92 points. Spicy oak aromas play nicely with core blackberry and black plum scents. On the palate, this is chewy and concentrated, with hard tannins. Generous flavors of black fruits, dried beef, herbs and chocolaty oak yield to spice and vanilla on the finish. While this is an excellent and full-flavored red with ample oak, it’s a bit shy on Cab Franc character; maybe more time in the bottle will bring that out. Drink through 2027. Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.S.

Sur de los Andes 2017 Reserva Cabernet Franc (Mendoza); $34, 92 points. Jammy black plum and blackberry aromas include hints of oak, varietal spice and herbal notes. A healthy palate is flush and supported by easygoing tannins. Mixed black fruit flavors come with a touch of Cabernet Franc’s noted herbal character, while this feels steady and smooth on the finish. Drink through 2023. W. Direct. —M.S.

Zolo 2017 Reserve Estate Grown Cabernet Franc (Mendoza); $20, 91 points. French consultant Jean Claude Berrouet is helping Zolo’s team make fresher wines at lower alcohol levels, and this wine fits the bill with its aromas of earth, cinnamon and berries. It’s fully ripe but not heavy on the palate, showing gamy, herbal and berry flavors that are typical of the variety. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.

Argento 2016 Reserva Cabernet Franc (Mendoza); $18, 90 points. Mild reduction on a nose that smells of spiced beef, salami with fennel and dark berry fruits leads to a full and layered palate with good natural acidity. Blackberry and cassis flavors are backed by a savory stewed note, while this is smooth and composed on the finish. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirit. —M.S.

Ginard Ballester 2017 Antonia Ginard Cabernet Franc (Paraje Altamira); $25, 90 points. Exotic, minerally berry aromas hint at violet and fine herbs, with spice and cardamom notes in the background. A tight palate is dry and elegant, while this tastes of plum, wild berry and exotic spices. Dry tannins and freshness on the finish are what Paraje Altamira is all about. Drink now. Alphapac A Marketing C. —M.S.

Finca la Celia 2017 Pioneer Cabernet Franc (Uco Valley); $16, 88 points. Spicy, saucy berry aromas are typical of Cabernet Franc, especially Uco Valley Cab Franc. A tight palate with tomatoey acidity is rubbing, while herbal plum and berry flavors include a patented CF note of bell pepper. On the finish, this is dry and pulls at the cheeks, with flavors of tomato, spice and plum. Apollo Fine Wines & Spirits. —M.S.

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A Six-Bottle Master Class to Chardonnay https://www.wineenthusiast.com/basics/chardonnay-master-class/ Tue, 25 May 2021 15:30:34 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/2021/05/25/chardonnay-master-class/ One of the most versatile grapes in the world, Chardonnay can take on many forms. Consider this tasting cheat sheet to find your Goldilocks. [...]

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One of the most versatile grapes in the world, Chardonnay typically falls into two camps for wine drinkers: those who love it and those who hate it. For those who politely decline the variety, it’s usually because their first introduction was a cheap, mass-produced version that tasted like imitation popcorn butter.

But Chardonnay can take on many forms, from deliciously delicate sparklers to still wines that run the gamut from crisp and steely to robust and round.

While many American wine drinkers connect Chardonnay to California, its roots are in Burgundy, France. The grape is planted to nearly half of the region’s total vineyard area. Its expression varies as a result of the area’s range in climate, from cool northerly Chablis to more moderate temperatures in the Mâconnais to the south.

Burgundian winemakers paved the way for modern winemaking practices like malolactic fermentation and barrel aging that tend to give Chardonnay a full-bodied, oaky and buttery texture.

Those techniques found their way to America. The grape started to gain popularity, particularly in California, around the 1970s. Winemakers experimented quite a bit, and the American style of Chardonnay became defined largely as a high-alcohol, low-acid wine with minimal fruit expression and oodles of oak influence.

Today, California winemakers have moved away from the butter bombs of the 1980s. They now produce wines, both unoaked and oaked, that showcase the variety’s diversity when crafted in different parts of the state.

If you’re curious to understand the grape’s varying expressions and find the perfect Chard for your palate, dive into these matchups: unoaked versus oaked Chardonnay; warm-climate versus cool-climate Chardonnay; and Burgundy versus California. As you taste each wine, make sure to jot down any specific flavors or aromas that you experience.

And it’s fine if you can’t find the exact bottles we suggest. Your local wine retailer should be able to point you in the right direction of something similar.

Ripe Chardonnay grape bunch hanging on the vine with leaves in Western Australia.
A ripe Chardonnay bunch hangs on the vine in Western Australia. / Getty

Unoaked vs. Oaked Chardonnay

When it comes to these two types of Chardonnay, the biggest difference is that one has been fermented in stainless steel and the other fermented in oak barrels. While the average consumer may believe that California is only capable of making full-bodied and buttery wines, the truth is that Chardonnay which embodies rich oak and creamy texture can be found anywhere in the world.

Chile, Australia, Argentina, and of course, France, also use a number of winemaking techniques that include oak to add hints of vanilla and toast to Chardonnay.

When it comes to unoaked, lighter and zesty Chardonnay, stainless steel fermentations allow for the resulting wines to taste very crisp, clean and minerally. These offer typical flavors of green apple, lemon and pear.

What ultimately makes the difference between unoaked and oaked Chardonnay is the way they are made and aged. Winemakers can choose between new French or American oak for the wine to embody certain toasty and nutty flavors.

In addition to the type of oak used, timing is everything when it comes to oaked Chardonnay. It can be aged for as little as three months or as long as a year. It all depends on the style that the winemaker hopes to achieve.

Malolactic fermentation also takes place during oak barrel fermentation, which contributes the creamy flavor and texture that many people enjoy. With unoaked Chardonnay, fermentation happens in stainless steel tanks, which allows for the fruit character to shine bright.

The Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley in Sonoma County will showcase California Chardonnay at its best.

Unoaked vs. Oaked Chardonnay Flight

Wine 1: Choose two bottles from the same region, or possibly even the same producer, to highlight the differences in winemaking technique. For a non-wooded selection, aside for “unoaked,” look for other common descriptors like “steel” or “unwooded” on the label.

Wine 2: For the oaked selection from your region of choice, look for key words like “reserve,” “wooded” or “barrel fermented” on the label.

A sign that says Chardonnay in a vineyard with a mountain in the background in Franschhoek, South Africa.
A Chardonnay vineyard in Franschhoek, South Africa. / Getty

Cool Climate vs. Warm Climate Chardonnay

No matter where in the world a vine grows, it needs five things: heat, sunlight, carbon dioxide, water and nutrients from the soil. A wine region’s climate is defined by its annual pattern of temperature, sunlight and rainfall over the course of several years. Chardonnay expresses itself differently based on the type of climate where the grapes are grown.

In cool climates like the South Island of New Zealand, Chablis or Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Chardonnay will express itself generally with higher acidity, more citrus-fruit flavor and minerality. It will also be lower in alcohol and zesty on the palate. Lower temperatures allow the grapes to retain their natural acidity and produce a Chardonnay that’s lighter in body.

Grapes grown in warmer climates like California, South Africa, Australia and Spain will generally be lower in acidity and higher in alcohol, but they’ll bring forth richer, riper fruit flavors like pineapple, apple and lemon.

Cool- vs. Warm-Climate Chardonnay Flight

Wine 1: Choose a Chablis, which is an iconic example of cool-climate Chardonnay.

Wine 2: Select a Chardonnay from South Australia to taste a sun-soaked, warm-climate version.

Burgundy Chardonnay vs. California Chardonnay

These are the two regions most famous for Chardonnay production. Burgundy is known for its vast, varying appellations and pioneering winemaking techniques. California is known for its history of “butter bombs,” but now takes advantage of cool-climate areas to produce zestier, lighter-bodied wines.

A scenic view of the Village of Meursault in Burgundy, France.
A scenic view of the village of Meursault in the Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France. / Getty

What makes Chardonnay a great grape is its ability to adjust to a variety of soil types. In Burgundy, terroir can change over the course of small areas, which can create unique expressions of the grape. Winemakers in France produce a number of quality levels, or crus, to best showcase the fruit’s quality.

In the Golden State, altitude and vineyard aspect can play a major role in the grape’s exposure to the sun. It gives Chardonnay the opportunity to ripen and produce full-bodied wines that are high in alcohol.

Price can often help to determine the quality of a good white Burgundy or California Chardonnay, but it’s important to note where the wine was sourced. Regional wines, like those that are labeled Bourgogne, tend to be inexpensive, while bottlings from site-specific premiers or grands crus will be more expensive. For California Chardonnay, Napa Valley and Sonoma County will be the American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) to seek out for high-quality examples.

Burgundy vs. California Chardonnay Flight

Wine 1: A white wine from any of the regions in the Côte de Beaune will provide a benchmark example of Burgundian Chardonnay. Look for bottles from Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet.

Wine 2: The Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley in Sonoma County will showcase California Chardonnay at its best.

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Why Now Is the Time to Buy Argentine Malbec Again https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/wine/buy-argentine-malbec-vintage/ Fri, 19 Mar 2021 16:00:56 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/2021/03/19/buy-argentine-malbec-vintage/ After a long stretch of difficult weather, Argentina's most recent vintages have produced bold, powerful wines of quality and great value. [...]

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Mendoza, where about 80% of Argentina’s wine is produced, is not known for overly challenging weather or severe vintage variation. To the contrary, this high-elevation desert region regularly benefits from plentiful daytime sun backed by cool Andean nights devoid of humidity. 

Yet the harvests of 2014 through 2016 were anything but normal, with frosts, hailstorms, rot and mildew, and even an El Niño year (2016) with drenching rains yielding wines that spanned the gamut of quality while often falling short of Argentina at its best. 

Fortunately for fans of Argentine wines, those difficult years are now largely in the rearview mirror, replaced by a more familiar and welcome batch of wines from 2017, 2018 and 2019. By and large, the current crop of wines, led by the country’s signature Malbec, is in top form. Overall quality has proved to be high, especially among wines from 2018, a year that saw near-perfect growing conditions. 

“We consider 2018 to be very nice, with more grapes compared with 2017, which had the lowest yields in the last 50 years,” said Karim Mussi, winemaker with Altocedro and several other labels. “We had a warm and dry season. Full ripeness came around 10 days early, with a great temperature range during the end of the season, assuring almost perfect phenolic ripeness.” 

Signs point in the right direction for 2019 as well. “Both 2018 and 2019 were very good years, with normal yields, something that is important because when yields are too low, ripeness arrives faster,” said Sebastián Zuccardi, winemaker at Familia Zuccardi

The bottom line: Now is a good time to stock up on Argentine wines. Malbecs from 2017 through 2019 are the best they can be and in full distribution, while other varieties (including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay) and blends also benefitted from excellent conditions. 

4 Gatos Locos 2018 Malbec (Gualtallary); $42, 93 points. An opaque color and aromas of crisply spiced blackberry and smoke form the opening on this fine Malbec from Gualtallary in the Uco Valley. A concentrated palate is anchored by grabby tannins that should resolve with more bottle age. Toasty blackberry and cassis flavors are backed by chocolaty notes, while this feels smooth and doesn’t grind on the finish. Enjoy through 2023. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. 

Luca 2018 Old Vine Malbec (Uco Valley); $35, 93 points. Concentrated black-fruit aromas alongside hints of cardamom and coriander open this lush Malbec. Blackberry, cassis and dark plum flavors are pure and agile on the palate. Enjoy through 2024. Vine Connections. Editors’ Choice. 

Zorzal 2017 Eggo Tinto de Tiza Malbec (Tupungato); $30, 93 points. This red delivers a full blast of berry fruit aromas along with savory notes of beef stew and fine herbs. Like the nose, this tastes herbal and savory. In terms of feel, it is solid in stature but brightened by bold acidity. Drink through 2024. Brazos Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. 

Argento 2018 Single Vineyard Finca Agrelo Organic Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza); $40, 92 points. Mild herbal and gamy notes add character to meaty blackberry and cassis aromas, while this Malbec from an excellent vintage feels full, smooth and chewy. Fully ripe and dense blackberry and chocolate flavors finish warm and steady, with concentration and balance. Enjoy now through 2024. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. 

Colomé 2018 Auténtico Malbec (Salta); $30, 92 points. A deeply saturated black-meets-purple color and cool aromas of herbal blackberry, cola and minerals open this lush Malbec from Salta. A sappy palate is dense and full bodied, while this tastes of wild berry, cassis and balsamic reduction. A thick and sappy finish is fitting even though this sees no oak. Hess Family Wine Estates. 

Alta Vista 2018 Estate Malbec (Mendoza); $20, 91 points. Berry and plum aromas come with a meaty accent on the nose. This Malbec from a strong vintage offers juicy acidity and medium overall intensity. Lightly spicy plum and berry flavors are slightly gamy and wild on the finish. Kobrand. 

Fabre Montmayou 2018 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza); $15, 91 points. Ripe blackberry aromas are reduced at first and then expand on a saturated nose. Ripeness continues on the palate, with flavors of lush berry fruits, cassis and chocolaty oak. While this is a bit heady and adheres to the familiar Mendoza style, it’s a highly satisfying Malbec at a good price. Vinovia Wine Group. Best Buy. 

Kaiken 2018 Ultra Malbec (Mendoza); $20, 91 points. Baked blackberry and plum aromas include notes of coffee and raisin on the nose. Spiky acidity lends texture to the medium-depth palate, while this tastes of blackberry and cassis before transitioning to chocolate and toast on the finish. Drink through 2024. Guarachi Wine Partners.  

Maal 2018 Biutiful Malbec (Mendoza); $22, 90 points. Ripe berry aromas fill out a convincing nose, while this unoaked Malbec shows intensity and bold acidity on the palate. Fresh berry and black plum flavors are clean and easy to enjoy. Overall, this delivers purity, verve and quality fruit. Vineyard Brands. 

Salentein 2018 Reserve Malbec (Uco Valley); $19, 90 points. Spicy blackberry, cola and cool earth aromas set up a hefty palate with midlevel acidity and rubbing tannins. Ripe, lightly baked blackberry and dark plum flavors finish steady on a full and jammy finish. Palm Bay International. 

Zolo 2019 Estate Grown and Bottled Malbec (Luján de Cuyo); $12, 89 points. Berry and plum aromas are generous, jammy and lightly spiced and bring a wild animal note into play. A full and flush mouthfeel supports spicy plum, currant and raspberry flavors. On the finish, dry spice notes and a composed texture are positives. Vino del Sol. Best Buy.  

Domaine Bousquet 2019 Virgen Organic Malbec (Tupungato); $13, 88 points. Berry aromas are lightly reduced at first, with notes of fresh asphalt and purple flowers. The medium-bodied palate shows a deft touch, while it tastes of bright berry fruits. The finish of this organic Malbec is juicy and steady. WISD LLC. Best Buy. 

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The Best Hikes in Patagonia According to Chile’s Wine Professionals https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/travel/best-hikes-patagonia-chile-wine/ Mon, 08 Feb 2021 17:00:23 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/2021/02/08/best-hikes-patagonia-chile-wine/ Whether you're looking for mountains, forests and anything in between, it's in Patagonia. We talked to Chile’s wine pros to see where to go. [...]

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Though the majority of Chile’s winegrowing regions are in the country’s temperate central zones, its winemakers seek raw nature to the south. Boasting a diversity of environments and hailed as the adventure travel capital of Chile, Patagonia is an outdoor lover’s dream. Its many hiking trails highlight the area’s famous mountains, glaciers, forests and grasslands, and stretch from the northern Lakes District all the way down to Cape Horn at the southernmost tip.

Here, some of the country’s more intrepid winemakers sound off on their favorite natural places to explore.

Torres del Paine National Park
Torres del Paine National Park / Stocksy United

Cristián Vallejo

Chief winemaker

Viña Vik

Vallejo’s favorite Patagonian trails are both in Torres del Paine National Park, each a popular draw for local and visiting hikers alike. For him a four-day adventure, the W Trek Circuit winds in a W-shaped route around the Paine Massif and visits park highlights like the Grey Glacier. For a longer trek, he likes the O Trek Circuit that encircles the Massif and ultimately connects the two ends of the W trail. The key, says Vallejo, is rewarding yourself after either journey. He recommends dinner in nearby Puerto Natales.

Torres del Paine
Torres del Paine / Getty

Emma Florensa Bournazeau

Partner

Viñas Las Niñas

There’s more to Torres del Paine than the W and O treks, Bournazeau points out. “I chose the Paso de Agostini because I think it is less known,” she says. “I like it because very different landscapes intersect with the backdrop of Torres del Paine.” With the Paine mountains in the background, the trail leads through the park’s grasslands, passing several beautiful lakes and offering opportunities to see local wildlife like guanacos, which are closely related to llamas.

Torres del Paine
Torres del Paine / Getty

María Luz Marín

Founder/CEO

Viña Casa Marín

The lesser-known adventures through Torres del Paine are also a favorite of Marín. She enjoys the day hike to the French Valley in the heart of the Paine Massif. “After two hours of traveling through forests and lakes, you arrive at Camp Italiano, the gateway to the incredible French Valley,” she says. “You begin to see the imposing hanging glaciers of Paine Grande, the highest mountain in the park.” After you ascend further through lenga and coihue forests, the hike culminates at the French Valley Lookout, “where you enjoy a wonderful panoramic view.”

Navarino Island
Navarino Island / Getty

Ricardo Baettig

Head winemaker

Viña Morandé

A born adventurer, Baettig recommends the rugged Dientes de Navarino Circuit, on Navarino Island in Tierra del Fuego. Recognized widely as the southernmost trek in the world, this epic backcountry journey calls for “a little more experience in navigation with GPS, or a good guide,” he says. The effort rewards with a route marked by jagged peaks, wind-sculpted forests, lakes, peat bogs and top-of-theworld views of the Beagle Channel. “It is spectacular because of its isolation, colder and harsher climate, and wild beauty.”

Conguillo National Park
Conguillo National Park / Getty

Grant Phelps

Owner/winemaker

WineBox Valparaiso

Phelps a New Zealand transplant, prefers to escape the crowds of southern Patagonia. He looks toward the Aysén or Lakes District regions of the north, renowned for forests, snowcapped peaks, lakes and rivers. “The park I really, really love down there is Conguillio,” he says. “The Sierra Nevada hike is wicked, as is the traverse of Volcan Llaima.” Conguillio National Park is perhaps best known for its forests of Dr. Seusslike, spindly Araucaria, or “monkey puzzle,” trees.

Aurelio Montes Del Campo 

Chief winemaker

Viña Montes

Another fan of northern Patagonia, Montes enjoys the peaceful trails of Alerce Costero National Park near Valdivia. The routes there are lined by towering, ancient Fitzroya trees. “It is a much easier…path, ideal for going with children,” he says. “The end of the trail takes you to a larch tree that’s over 2,000 years old, which is simply breathtaking.” He also recommends Futange Park, a private nature reserve on Ranco Lake. Its lengthy trails lead through Valdivian temperate rainforests.

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Forget the Big Fruit Bombs: The Fresh New Face of Argentine Wine https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/wine/best-wine-argentina-fresh/ Tue, 26 May 2020 17:00:02 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/2020/05/26/best-wine-argentina-fresh/ Argentina is known for jammy Malbecs, but producers are increasingly creating lighter, fresher offerings for the new natural-wine audience. [...]

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If you’ve been drinking Argentine wine for a while, you know the country’s signature style: a dark-tinted Malbec with aromas and flavors of raisin, blackberry jam and creamy new oak. It may contain upward of 15.5% alcohol by volume (abv) and be infused with searing tartaric acidity that aids balance and allows the wine to live on for decades.

But that style of wine, while very much still in existence, is losing popularity. Consumers, sommeliers and importers are seeking fresher, leaner, more food-friendly wines. Winemakers are happy to oblige, often with fruit from high-elevation vineyards blessed with limestone or rocky alluvial soils.

These wines and winemakers are at the forefront of a movement toward notable snap, zest and vigor. In these wines, alcohol levels are generally between 13% and 13.5% abv. Whether Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon or any other variety, white or red, “freshness” has become the theme of the moment throughout Argentina.

Five red wine bottles
L to R: Durigutti 2018 Proyecto Las Compuertas Cinco Suelos Malbec (Luján de Cuyo), Zorzal 2017 Eggo Tinto de Tiza Malbec (Tupungato), Zuccardi 2018 Polígonos del Valle de Uco Cabernet Franc (San Pablo), Bodega Chacra 2018 Barda Pinot Noir (Río Negro), Chakana 2017 Ayni Malbec (Paraje Altamira)/Photo by Tom Arena

Less is More

Juan Facundo Suárez, co-owner and co-winemaker of Traslapiedra and other labels, knows a thing or two about how to produce fresh-style wines. His great-grandfather, Leopoldo Suárez, literally wrote the book, or Manual Ampelográfico, on how and why winemakers in Mendoza should strive to make bottlings low in alcohol and oak, but high in freshness.

“He knew back in 1911 to avoid over-ripeness,” says Suárez. “He wrote about not using too much oak, about the character of our Malbec and Sémillon grown on calcareous soils. And that is what we are doing nowadays. Most of what falls into this emerging fresh category are terroir-driven wines from defined regions within the Uco Valley. In terms of winemaking techniques, it’s about looking back and making wines in a natural way, without additions.”

Traslapiedra’s 2018 Malbec is a stellar example of a no-intervention, new-wave Argentine wine that almost falls under the “natural” umbrella. It comes from Paraje Altamira, a recently denominated section of San Carlos in the Uco Valley.

The entire region sits well over 3,000 feet above sea level; its soils are full of round rocks that came down countless centuries ago from the nearby Andes. Some are as big as boulders. Most are covered with chalky white calcium carbonate that is said to impart a can’t-miss minerality to the wines.

“We are trying to make an easy-drinking wine with the texture that Paraje Altamira’s calcareous soils can provide,” says Suárez. “We ferment and age in concrete, with a short maceration and without bleeding.”

Five red wine bottles
L to R: Zolo 2017 Reserve Estate Grown Cabernet Franc (Mendoza), Passionate Wine 2018 Via Revolucionaria Hulk Sémillon (Tupungato), Traslapiedra 2018 Vino de Desierto Marino Malbec (Paraje Altamira), Colomé 2019 Estate Torrontés (Salta), Ernesto Catena 2017 Tahuan Siesta en el Tahuantinsuyu Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza)/Photo by Tom Arena

Aging Gracefully

Fermenting and aging in concrete, as opposed to using stainless steel followed by extended time in new oak, only helps with freshness, Argentine winemakers claim. At Familia Zuccardi’s Bodega de Piedra Infinita, also in Paraje Altamira, Sebastián Zuccardi eschews small oak barrels and relies mostly on concrete and the occasional large wood foudre.

“The concept of freshness is more related to how a wine smells and feels than the laboratory analysis,” says Zuccardi, whose 2018 Polígonos Cabernet Franc and Malbec, from high-elevation vineyards in the San Pablo and Gualtallary zones of the Uco Valley, shouts with brightness and punch.

“I’m more focused on balance, acidity, texture, length, flower and herb aromas, low or no oak, etc.,” he says. “With the sunny weather that we have, sugar rises quickly at the beginning of the season but then slows down in March [when picking begins]. I don’t like to be higher than 14% to 14.5% because you lose tension. Between 13% and 14%, we can find great balance in our wines.”

That alcohol level is where you will find the bulk of the wines made jointly or individually by Gerardo, Matías and Juan Pablo Michelini. Collectively, they’re behind the Michelini Bros. label that makes terroir-specific Malbecs and other varietal wines and blends.

One of their standout wines is Zorzal 2017 EGGO Tinto de Tiza, a Malbec from a particularly limestone-rich vineyard in the Gualtallary section of Tupungato. Juan Pablo, the youngest of the brothers, says that they started thinking about its creation in 2012, when more was still more in Argentina.

“The objective behind EGGO has been to show the true and pure character of the most calcareous parts of Gualtallary,” he says. “A key point to making these wines is when we harvest, and in general we do it on the early side; adapting harvest dates to a particular year’s climate allows our wines to show finesse and, above all, elegance.”

Like Traslapiedra and Zuccardi’s Polígonos line, EGGO wines are fermented with only natural yeasts and aged entirely in concrete eggs, hence the name.

“Whether we are using wood or not, we are heavily focused on the aging process and avoiding overextraction,” says Juan Pablo.

Fresh wines that don’t clobber you over the head with overripe fruit and heavy oak, nor burn with tartaric acid. That’s what savvy wine lovers are finding—and enjoying more than ever— from Argentina these days.

Bottles to Try

Michelini i Mufatto 2017 La Cautiva Malbec (Gualtallary); $75, 96 points. Top of the mark, top of the heap is where this Malbec from Gualtallary in Tupungato ranks. Pure blackberry, cassis and plum aromas are impeccably clean and welcoming, while this feels squeaky fresh on the palate. Blackberry and dark chocolate flavors set up a minerally finish that plays out with fruity subtleties and stony infusions. Drink through 2026. Brazos Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice.

Matervini 2017 Finca Malbec (Perdriel); $90, 94 points. Former Achaval-Ferrer principals Santiago Achával and Roberto Cipresso crafted this Malbec from a vineyard planted in 1938. It offers dense a cassis aroma alongside notes of tire rubber, raw oak, graphite and vanilla. It feels structured and juicy on the palate, with firm tannins providing grip. Flavors of cassis, spiced plum and blueberry are notably oaky but never lose their focus. Drink through 2028. La Granja Winery. Cellar Selection.

Durigutti 2018 Proyecto Las Compuertas Cinco Suelos Malbec (Luján de Cuyo); $30, 93 points. This Malbec from five different vineyard blocks is part of a small-batch project from brothers Hector and Pablo Durigutti. Pure aromas of blackberry and cassis come with a herbal accent. It is full in body but not heavy due to bracing acidity and controlled alcohol. Flavors of blackberry, plum and beet root finish with clarity. Enjoy through 2024. The Artisan Collection.

Zorzal 2017 Eggo Tinto de Tiza Malbec (Tupungato); $30, 93 points. This red delivers a full blast of berry fruit aromas along with savory notes of beef stew and fine herbs. Like the nose, this tastes herbal and savory. In terms of feel, it is solid in stature but brightened by bold acidity. Drink through 2024. Brazos Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice.

Zuccardi 2018 Polígonos del Valle de Uco Cabernet Franc (San Pablo); $30, 93 points. This racy Cabernet Franc from Winemaker Sebastián Zuccardi is made entirely in concrete. Plum and berry tones are full and fresh on the nose and palate, while flavors of black fruit, herbs, tea and tomato linger on the smooth finish. Drink through 2024. Editors’ Choice.

Bodega Chacra 2018 Barda Pinot Noir (Río Negro); $30, 91 points. This is an alert Pinot Noir from Piero Incisa della Rocchetta’s Patagonia winery. It is medium-bodied on the palate, showing a light tannic rub. Flavors of cherry and plum are supported by mild wood spice. Drink through 2023. Kobrand.

Chakana 2017 Ayni Malbec (Paraje Altamira); $39, 91 points. Ripe aromas of black plum and cassis are topped with an appealing oak tone. This is a fairly tight and fresh style of Malbec that shows black-fruit flavors on the palate aided by toasty oak. It finishes with firm tannins. Drink through 2026. Kysela Père et Fils.

Zolo 2017 Reserve Estate Grown Cabernet Franc (Mendoza); $20, 91 points. French consultant Jean Claude Berrouet is helping Zolo’s team make fresher wines at lower alcohol levels, and this wine fits the bill with its aromas of earth, cinnamon and berries. It’s fully ripe but not heavy on the palate, showing gamy, herbal and berry flavors that are typical of the variety. Vino Del Sol.

Passionate Wine 2018 Via Revolucionaria Hulk Sémillon (Tupungato); $15, 90 points. A bright gold color and waxy aromas of apricot and citrus peel form the nose of this Sémillon from Matías Michelini that spent three months in concrete eggs. It shows plumpness on the palate, with flavors of yellow apple and peach backed by a mild bitterness. Drink now. Brazos Wine Imports. Best Buy.

Traslapiedra 2018 Vino de Desierto Marino Malbec (Paraje Altamira); $20, 90 points. This natural-style Malbec is fermented with native yeast and aged entirely in concrete. It’s lively on the nose in reedy wild berry and red currant aromas. The crisp, racy palate is jolting, while flavors of red plum, currant and cranberry lean spicy prior to a tight, focused finish. Drink now. Regal Wine Imports Inc.

Colomé 2019 Estate Torrontés (Salta); $15, 89 points. Aromas of lemon, lime and pastry dusted with powdered sugar lead to a round palate with citrus-like acidity. Pineapple and melon flavors come with a touch of salt, while the palate feels full with a slight grip. Drink now. Hess Family Wine Estates.

Ernesto Catena 2017 Tahuan Siesta en el Tahuantinsuyu Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza); $17, 88 points. Astringent at first then more forgiving, this red offers flavors of red berry, juniper, cola and spice. Clove and plum skin tones steer the smacking finish of this superfresh Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now. Vineyard Brands.

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