Like the Hamptons in the U.S., Waiheke is a weekend playground. The island has attracted a colorful array of full-time residents and eco-warriors like Green Peace co-founder Susi Newborn and Dresden Dolls lead singer Amanda Palmer, as well as A-list celebrity visitors like Madonna, Beyoncé, Justin Timberlake, Bill Gates and Serena Williams. But the island retains a uniquely rugged, melting pot charm rarely found in such an isolated spot.

You May Also Like: 10 of the Best Pinot Noirs, Syrahs and Other Red Wines from New Zealand

Perhaps Waiheke’s most notable claim to fame? Its wine. The island’s 30 wineries, dotted across 36 square miles of hilly, rugged landscape, are known for producing peppery, perfumed Syrah, characterful Chardonnay and herbaceous Bordeaux blends. Most of these wineries operate at a boutique scale and few bottles make it to the U.S.

This rarity and the area’s abundance of world-class wine tourism experiences make visiting the appropriately nicknamed “island of wine” incredibly special. In addition to welcoming tasting rooms, many wineries also offer top-notch restaurants, accommodations, expansive gardens, outdoor sculptures, event spaces and even microbreweries. Here we’ve rounded up the best wineries, restaurants, hotels and things to do on Waiheke Island.

Where to Sip

Mudbrick

Just a five minutes’ drive from Waiheke’s ferry terminal, Mudbrick offers sumptuous wines, a cozy tasting room, English cottage-style gardens and stunning views of the Hauraki Gulf and Auckland city. New Zealanders also know it as one of the nation’s top wedding destinations. Food lovers flock to its two eateries: the romantic Mudbrick Restaurant and the modern bistro, Archive, both of which feature creative, island-inspired offerings like a seafood-forward gumbo, local Te Matuku Bay oysters and taro leaf rotolo. Adding to the appeal, Mudbrick also offers a range of beautifully designed accommodations across the island and in Auckland.

Wines to try: 2021 Reserve Chardonnay, 2022 Oscar Syrah, 2020 Reserve Bordeaux Blend

Tantalus

Carrie Mendell and Campbell Aitken purchased the Tantalus property in 2013. Over the span of three years, they built an impressive, light-filled tasting room nestled into the hills of the Onetangi Valley and surrounded by sweeping panoramas of vines. Luxurious yet down-to-earth, the winery is also home to an award-winning restaurant, which offers stunning views of the vineyards from its serene dining room. Filled with natural materials and encased in glass, the restaurant offers both a la carte and six-course “trust the chef” tasting menus. Don’t miss the dark and broody subterranean wine library and on-site microbrewery, Alibi Brewing Co.

Wine to try: 2017 Écluse Bordeaux blend, 2017 Voilé Syrah

Batch

The experience at Batch is just what you’d hope for from the highest-elevation winery on the island: knock-your-socks-off views, no matter where you stand. Take in the steep hills lined with rows of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Syrah and Bordeaux varietals from the terraced patio or cozy restaurant, which boasts floor-to-ceiling windows and local seafood and meat cooked on a Josper charcoal grill. Multiple tasting options are available, including a $75 per person barrel tasting experience. Whatever experience you choose, make sure to try a glass of Prosecco-style Thomas Blanc de Gris bubbles—it’s one of the few wineries in New Zealand to make wines in “Charmat” tanks.

Wines to try: NV Thomas Sparkling Cuveé Rosé, 2021 Thomas Legacy Cabernet Franc

Man O’ War

In a remote location on the far eastern end of the island, many locals frequent Man O’ War’s beachfront tasting room and restaurant by boat. But one doesn’t need to board a watercraft to access this winery. The estate runs its own coach bus, which passes by some of the winery’s hillside vineyards, with daily departures from the ferry terminal. The winery is the largest on Waiheke with 75 individual vineyard blocks that account for a whopping two-thirds of the island’s vineyards. It is also one of the few labels exported internationally. The operation’s range of elegant wines includes a textural, barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon and a savory, floral Syrah.

Wine to try: 2019 Dreadnought Syrah

Where to Eat

Waiheke has no shortage of world-class winery restaurants. In addition to those mentioned above, Poderi Crisci is the spot to tuck into a lingering Italian lunch of pasta, Neapolitan-style meatballs and pan-seared Yellow Fin Tuna alongside a glass of estate-made Arneis or Montepulciano. Te Motu’s The Shed restaurant, meanwhile, is the place hyper-local, seasonal fare like garden veggies and house-cured meats. At Casita Miro, a Mediterranean tapas menu pairs perfectly with own-label wines and an extensive list of Sherries.

You May Also Like: This New Zealand Wine Region is ‘A Masterpiece in the Making’

Beyond winery dining options, rub shoulders with locals at spots like The Courtyard Restaurant, which offers Italian-ish fare with international flourishes; beachfront Three Seven Two; Italian Café Fenice; and award-winning beachside bistro The Oyster Inn. Grab a pint and pub grub at beach bar Charlie Farleys; coffee and baked goods at Rendezvous Café; brunch at Nomads and gelato at La Dolce Vita.

If your accommodation comes with a kitchen, stock up on meat at the Humble Pie Village Butchery and organic ingredients at The Island Grocer. Or, if you’d prefer to dine with the sand between your toes, grab a sandwich at the grocery deli to eat right on Oneroa Beach, a stone’s throw away.

Where to Stay

As a popular weekender destination, Waiheke has no shortage of accommodation styles, from extravagant villas to backpacker hostels. There are over 300 rental listings on AirBnb, but locals recommend using the booking site Waiheke Unlimited.

You May Also Like: An Eco-Friendly Wine Tour of New Zealand’s South Island

If you’re looking for opulent digs, consider booking a stay at Delamore Lodge, a resort and spa that occupies a large slice of the island’s northwest corner. Other high-end options include Boatshed, a small luxury hotel that overlooks the bay and beach, and Omana Luxury Villa, a collection of four secluded modern hilltop villas that feel like a private oasis. Midrange lodgings can be found at beachy The Oyster Inn and contemporary Waiheke Island Resort.

Several wineries also offer accommodation—most notably, Mudbrick. Scattered across the island, options include beautifully designed rooms, cottages and guest homes in a variety of styles. There’s even a cozy cottage for rent in Auckland.

Things To Do

“There is a whole network of trails across the island,” says American expat and winemaker Diana Hawkins, who co-founded the label Responsible Hedonist with her partner Frank Leperi. “The Matiatia coastal walkway is an easy access trail with great views.” Every other year it hosts Sculpture on the Gulf, a large outdoor gallery.

“I also recommend hiking the small trail near Little Oneroa beach,” says Hawkins. “Grab a pizza from Dragonfired and walk up with the bottle of wine you bought at the winery that day and enjoy the sunset.”

Hawkins also recommends snorkeling at the nude beach but warns: “you may see more than fish!” She recommends Enclosure Bay for spotting octopus, rays, and seahorses.

You May Also Like: Five Honeymoon Destinations for Wine Lovers

Alcides Pont Neto, a Brazilian expat and Head of Wine Sales at Batch Winery, recommends renting a bike to explore the wineries, visiting the local farmer’s market on Saturdays or hiring a helicopter for a bird’s eye view. “A flight with Waiheke Wings is a must-do attraction,” he says. “To see the island from above is great, and you really feel you are in a special little place in the world. When I did it, it just made me appreciate much more the place I had chosen to live.”

Another stunning outdoor experience is the waterfall at Whakanewha Regional Park. “If you are feeling more adventurous and have a car, a visit to Man O’War bay is a great day trip, with the famous Stony Batter gun emplacement tunnels offering a look at Waiheke’s wartime history,” says Fiona Walkley, Cellar Door Manager at Mudbrick winery.

For rainy days, Walkley recommends a visit to Waiheke Community Art Gallery or Waiheke Musical Museum, or catching a flick at Waiheke Community Cinema. The volunteer-run facility shows the latest movies as well as arthouse and locally produced productions in a unique setting. “All the seats are old couches,” says Walkley. “It’s fantastic!”

The post The Best Wineries (and More) on Waiheke, New Zealand’s ‘Island of Wine’ appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

“Oritain’s scientific verification technology, to me, is another tool in the whole traceability world of fine wine,” says Steve Smith, MW, cofounder of AONZ Fine Wine Estates, which includes the iconic Pyramid Valley estate in New Zealand’s North Canterbury region. He uses the privately owned company’s technology to guarantee the origins of Pyramid Valley’s four single-vineyard wines. “It is totally different from other traceability technologies,” he says, referring to blockchain-based systems like NFTs, which rely on digital records and trace just the bottle. “This is the only technology that guarantees that what is in the bottle comes from a specific place based on an analysis of the physical wine. It stays with the verified wine vintage for its entire life.”

The backbone of this new tech is that it can home in on the unique sets of chemical elements and isotopes found within the environment in which the grapes were grown. Plants and animals that live in those environments eat, drink or absorb these same sets elements. By testing the chemical origin attributes of a finished wine, Oritain is able to “fingerprint” it, thereby creating a profile that any future wines claiming to be made from the same place can be tested against. Once Oritain has added the wine to its database, it is guaranteed via a QR code on its back label.

One caveat: To prove authenticity of a wine, the liquid inside the bottle needs to be tested.

“With this technique, you would need to ‘sacrifice’ the bottle to extract and analyze the liquid, making that rare bottle redundant,” says Scott Evers, whose Australia-based company, Wine & Whisky Provenance, is dedicated to combating counterfeit wine.

You May Also Like: Rudy Kurniawan’s Counterfeits May Still Be in Private Collections

While old and rare wines must continue to rely on analysis of the bottle itself—the ink, glass and seal—Evers nevertheless believes that fingerprinting technology has legs. “This is no doubt exciting technology, and it has potential to help protect producers’ wine brands as well as regional and country branding.”

“It is all related to how important place and producer are to the perceived value and desirability for a consumer,” says Smith. “Products that get their value from nature need to tell real stories of nature. Oritain provides authentication of those nature stories as they link to place, and in that it is a game changer.”

This article originally appeared in the October 2023 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

Bring the World of Wine to Your Doorstep

Subscribe to Wine Enthusiast Magazine now and get 1 year for $70 $29.99.

Subscribe

The post In New Zealand, a Forensics Company Takes on Wine Fraud appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

In 1993, he established Two Paddocks winery in Central Otago, New Zealand. Since then, the estate has earned accolades for vibrant, transparent Pinots produced from four distinct vineyards.

We last chatted with Neill back in 2008. With Jurassic World: Dominion now on the horizon, we decided to check in again—this time, via Zoom from his quarantine hotel room in Auckland, New Zealand—to learn more about how 2020’s events altered his perspective on wine and why natural wine can be interesting.

Have the pandemic and various quarantines changed your perspective on wine?

I’ve been encouraging people to drink less, but better. To really get interested in what’s in the glass, who grew it, what it’s about…  When you’re locked down and putting up with your own company…you might as well be mindful of what you’re doing.

What was it like to film Jurassic World during a pandemic?

That was an unusual experience and one of the toughest I’ve ever had. We were locked up for effectively four to five months, tested every day for 10 days when we arrived, and three times a week after. Someone estimated they spent $5 million just on Covid-19 precautions.

“I’ve been encouraging people to drink less, but better. To really get interested in what’s in the glass.”

You’ve gushed openly about the magic of Central Otago. Do you feel the same now?

Someone once said, “You can love many places in the world, but you can only be in love with one.” The only place in the world I’m in love with is Central Otago. I get off the plane, and within an hour, I feel completely at home.

You recently produced a small amount of Pinot Noir naturally, without intervention or preservatives like sulfur. Did you find much difference between that and the Pinot you make conventionally?

We made two small batches from exactly the same plot: the Fusilier Vineyard in Bannockburn. One was a natural wine, and one was classic. It was really interesting, the results, because they were completely different wines. They could have been from a different vineyard altogether, but they were from exactly the same grapes.

Did the pandemic disrupt vineyard and cellar work for you?

When harvest hit, it was full-on pandemic, but the government made an exception for the wine industry with very strict protocols in place. Everyone got a dedicated bucket, a dedicated set of secateurs, and people had to keep about 6.5 feet apart all day. We estimate that every vine is visited by a pair of hands 14–15 times a year. It’s time consuming and repetitive work, from leaf plucking to harvest, so it helps when you’re all in it together. To be separate and doing it isn’t so much fun.

What’s your vision for the winery in the next five or 10 years?

Well, all four vineyards were certified organic in 2017. It’s becoming more important to people, and it certainly is to us. There was one vineyard that was problematic that we had to farm conventionally for a while, but we eventually decided everything had to be organic. It’s time consuming and expensive, but I couldn’t in all conscience live with myself if we weren’t farming organically and sustainably.

How do you feel about natural wine, or wine that’s made without anything added or taken away?

We got interested in natural wine, which I laugh a bit about, but there’s demand for it. We make a small amount for our wine club members… I don’t really approve of it, to be honest. How long has mankind been making wine? I suppose it’s 10,000 years or something? And one of the great breakthroughs happened about 3,000 years ago when they started putting in a little bit of sulfur from Mt. Etna in Sicily. They discovered wine could have a life, rather than be a home brew, so why we’re reverting to something your grandad made in his garage. I don’t really know.

What can you tell us about Last Chance, the beautiful windswept vineyard at the end of the world?

If I had to pick one of my vineyards, that would be the one. There are extraordinary, weathered rocks that look like ancient creatures, and green vines growing below them. It has fabulous views looking north into the sun. It seems an unlikely place for a vineyard initially, but it has the full intensity of that Central Otago sun that’s like nowhere else. It’s a bit windier than elsewhere, so it produces tough, small berries and small bunches. Alexandra, the subregion, was always overlooked, but I think we make some of the most interesting, elegant, restrained wines from there. We hold back Last Chance an extra year. It is the slowest to come forward because of these lovely tannins. Next year, we’ll release the 2018.

What’s distinct about this wine? How would you recognize it when tasting it blind?

It’s got lovely savory qualities. It’s the most savory of our wines. It’s surrounded by wild thyme. Thyme even grows between the rows. I’ve always thought that partly accounts for its profile. It also has a subtlety and a kind of reticence that calls for attention, which is exactly what I’ve been talking about, that mindfulness that you need to appreciate Pinot Noir.

The post ‘Drink Less, But Better’: Actor Sam Neill on Winemaking and What’s Next appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

But Chardonnay can take on many forms, from deliciously delicate sparklers to still wines that run the gamut from crisp and steely to robust and round.

While many American wine drinkers connect Chardonnay to California, its roots are in Burgundy, France. The grape is planted to nearly half of the region’s total vineyard area. Its expression varies as a result of the area’s range in climate, from cool northerly Chablis to more moderate temperatures in the Mâconnais to the south.

Burgundian winemakers paved the way for modern winemaking practices like malolactic fermentation and barrel aging that tend to give Chardonnay a full-bodied, oaky and buttery texture.

Those techniques found their way to America. The grape started to gain popularity, particularly in California, around the 1970s. Winemakers experimented quite a bit, and the American style of Chardonnay became defined largely as a high-alcohol, low-acid wine with minimal fruit expression and oodles of oak influence.

Today, California winemakers have moved away from the butter bombs of the 1980s. They now produce wines, both unoaked and oaked, that showcase the variety’s diversity when crafted in different parts of the state.

If you’re curious to understand the grape’s varying expressions and find the perfect Chard for your palate, dive into these matchups: unoaked versus oaked Chardonnay; warm-climate versus cool-climate Chardonnay; and Burgundy versus California. As you taste each wine, make sure to jot down any specific flavors or aromas that you experience.

And it’s fine if you can’t find the exact bottles we suggest. Your local wine retailer should be able to point you in the right direction of something similar.

Unoaked vs. Oaked Chardonnay

When it comes to these two types of Chardonnay, the biggest difference is that one has been fermented in stainless steel and the other fermented in oak barrels. While the average consumer may believe that California is only capable of making full-bodied and buttery wines, the truth is that Chardonnay which embodies rich oak and creamy texture can be found anywhere in the world.

Chile, Australia, Argentina, and of course, France, also use a number of winemaking techniques that include oak to add hints of vanilla and toast to Chardonnay.

When it comes to unoaked, lighter and zesty Chardonnay, stainless steel fermentations allow for the resulting wines to taste very crisp, clean and minerally. These offer typical flavors of green apple, lemon and pear.

What ultimately makes the difference between unoaked and oaked Chardonnay is the way they are made and aged. Winemakers can choose between new French or American oak for the wine to embody certain toasty and nutty flavors.

In addition to the type of oak used, timing is everything when it comes to oaked Chardonnay. It can be aged for as little as three months or as long as a year. It all depends on the style that the winemaker hopes to achieve.

Malolactic fermentation also takes place during oak barrel fermentation, which contributes the creamy flavor and texture that many people enjoy. With unoaked Chardonnay, fermentation happens in stainless steel tanks, which allows for the fruit character to shine bright.

The Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley in Sonoma County will showcase California Chardonnay at its best.

Unoaked vs. Oaked Chardonnay Flight

Wine 1: Choose two bottles from the same region, or possibly even the same producer, to highlight the differences in winemaking technique. For a non-wooded selection, aside for “unoaked,” look for other common descriptors like “steel” or “unwooded” on the label.

Wine 2: For the oaked selection from your region of choice, look for key words like “reserve,” “wooded” or “barrel fermented” on the label.

Cool Climate vs. Warm Climate Chardonnay

No matter where in the world a vine grows, it needs five things: heat, sunlight, carbon dioxide, water and nutrients from the soil. A wine region’s climate is defined by its annual pattern of temperature, sunlight and rainfall over the course of several years. Chardonnay expresses itself differently based on the type of climate where the grapes are grown.

In cool climates like the South Island of New Zealand, Chablis or Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Chardonnay will express itself generally with higher acidity, more citrus-fruit flavor and minerality. It will also be lower in alcohol and zesty on the palate. Lower temperatures allow the grapes to retain their natural acidity and produce a Chardonnay that’s lighter in body.

Grapes grown in warmer climates like California, South Africa, Australia and Spain will generally be lower in acidity and higher in alcohol, but they’ll bring forth richer, riper fruit flavors like pineapple, apple and lemon.

Cool- vs. Warm-Climate Chardonnay Flight

Wine 1: Choose a Chablis, which is an iconic example of cool-climate Chardonnay.

Wine 2: Select a Chardonnay from South Australia to taste a sun-soaked, warm-climate version.

Burgundy Chardonnay vs. California Chardonnay

These are the two regions most famous for Chardonnay production. Burgundy is known for its vast, varying appellations and pioneering winemaking techniques. California is known for its history of “butter bombs,” but now takes advantage of cool-climate areas to produce zestier, lighter-bodied wines.

What makes Chardonnay a great grape is its ability to adjust to a variety of soil types. In Burgundy, terroir can change over the course of small areas, which can create unique expressions of the grape. Winemakers in France produce a number of quality levels, or crus, to best showcase the fruit’s quality.

In the Golden State, altitude and vineyard aspect can play a major role in the grape’s exposure to the sun. It gives Chardonnay the opportunity to ripen and produce full-bodied wines that are high in alcohol.

Price can often help to determine the quality of a good white Burgundy or California Chardonnay, but it’s important to note where the wine was sourced. Regional wines, like those that are labeled Bourgogne, tend to be inexpensive, while bottlings from site-specific premiers or grands crus will be more expensive. For California Chardonnay, Napa Valley and Sonoma County will be the American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) to seek out for high-quality examples.

Burgundy vs. California Chardonnay Flight

Wine 1: A white wine from any of the regions in the Côte de Beaune will provide a benchmark example of Burgundian Chardonnay. Look for bottles from Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet.

Wine 2: The Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley in Sonoma County will showcase California Chardonnay at its best.

The post A Six-Bottle Master Class to Chardonnay appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Sauvignon Blanc is a bit of a chameleon, adapting completely to its surrounding climatic environment. Depending on its provenance, the flavor profile can range from grassy and herbaceous to floral and citrusy. Though it is an Old World white—Bordeaux born, in fact—it has also found its roots in other regions around the world, namely those in the New World, including California, New Zealand, and Chile. Its zesty electricity and myriad flavor permutations make it an easy choice for anytime sipping.

Massican 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley); $32, 95 points. This is winemaker Dan Petroski’s nod to the Sauvignons of northern Italy. Lemony and sleek, it conjures notes of wet stone, brine and complex, layered acidity, with a lasting tease of green apple and lemongrass. —Virginie Boone

Clos Henri 2019 Petit Clos Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough); $18, 94 points. Another stellar wine from this quality-driven producer and an excellent vintage, the bang-for-buck factor delivers extra strong here. Notes of soft gunflint and seashell tuck beneath bright citrus and stone fruit, grass and dried green herbs. The palate strikes a lovely balance between texture and zingy acidity. Flinty, mineral nuances run beside juicy citrus right to the long finish. This may be less ageworthy than Henri’s upper tier Sauvignon, but it’s utterly delicious drinking right now. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —Christina Pickard

Joseph Phelps 2019 Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc (St. Helena): $45, 94 points. Offering tremendous value for the price, this is a lively, seamless and textured white wine from estate grapes that shows elegance and length. Green apple, apricot and lemongrass highlight a sublime core of integrated finesse and complexity. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.

Estancia 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Monterey County); $12, 92 points. Clean and sharp aromas of lime and pomelo pith converge with rounded nectarine and blooming honeysuckle on the complex nose of this bottling. It’s tight on the palate, combining zesty Meyer lemon peel with richer elderflower flavors. Best Buy. —Matt Kettmann

Concha y Toro 2019 Terrunyo Los Boldos Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $26, 91 points. Crisp, citric aromas are pure and minerally, with only the slightest hint of prickly green herbs. A fresh, wholesome palate is crystalline and bright, balanced by a mix of citrus, green herb and peppery flavors. A long and cleansing finish rides a beam of lively acidity. Drink through 2021. Fetzer Vineyards. —Michael Schachner

Craggy Range 2019 Te Muna Sauvignon Blanc (Martinborough); $22, 91 points. This vintage of Craggy Range’s classic Martinborough SB favors grassy, green herbal notes, woven with zesty lemon-lime, passion fruit and seashell nuances. As it warms in the glass, it offers more generous fruit. The palate is zesty, with green herbal notes riding straight through to the finish. There’s a lovely balance of texture and acidity with length and freshness, it’s just a baby, and could benefit from another year in the bottle. Kobrand. —C.P.

Cloudy Bay 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough); $31, 90 points. This vintage of Marlborough’s most famous label is a balanced, refreshing drop. Bright aromas of grapefruit, peaches n’ cream, lemongrass and tomato leaf lead to a palate that crunches with acidity while also being slippery and juicy-fruited. A summer sipper with or without food. Moët Hennessy USA. —C.P.

Errazuriz 2019 Max Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Aconcagua); $20, 90 points. Lean, punchy aromas of celery, jalapeño and citrus fruits include a pop of cool-coast pyrazines. A pure mouthfeel, with crispness and acidity frames green-leaning flavors of bell pepper and tangerine, while this holds the line on a clean finish with latent acidity. Vintus LLC. —M.S.

La Crema 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma County); $25, 90 points. Given time in both oak and stainless steel, this lively white is grassy and lively in stone fruit, with an enduring crispness to the texture. Bright and food-friendly, it offers wide appeal and elegance. —V.B.

Tortoise Creek 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Coast); $12, 90 points. Broad aromas of yellow apple meet with crisp citrus peel and cold steel on the nose of this bottling. The palate packs riper baked peach flavors with clean lines of lemon zest and pleasant white flower. Best Buy. —M.K.

The post Grassy, Herbaceous and More: Sauvignon Blanc From Around the (New) World appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Despite being one of New Zealand’s most accessible wine regions, just a breezy 45-minute drive north from Christchurch on the eastern side the South Island, this small yet mighty beacon of cool-climate  viticulture flies under the radar. Its forward-thinking winemakers are focused on community and humble about their vibrant wines.

Although the Sauvignon Blanc avalanche has slid the 150 miles south from Marlborough, it hasn’t buried the region. North Canterbury is unfettered and less defined, painted with varying brush strokes and a colorful palate of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling, along with myriad other cool climate varieties, including Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Gewürztraminer.

The wines are linear and racy, less about plush fruit and more about salinity and crackling natural acidity. It’s high time to turn your gaze toward the jewel that is North Canterbury.

The Past and the Present

North Canterbury is a relatively young wine region where clones and vine training techniques are still being tested. Considering this, the wines currently produced there are remarkable.

“The culture of [North Canterbury] has grown a lot in the last 10 years,” says Steve Smith, MW, the former founder/director of Craggy Range in Hawke’s Bay. With business partner Brian Sheth, he  purchased Pyramid Valley Vineyards here in 2017.

“All of a sudden, you’ve got the heart and soul of a wine region, and a number of producers doing really interesting stuff in a climate that’s quite unique with vines now getting some age on them.”

Many of the area’s wineries are family-run, and organic and biodynamic farming are increasingly common. The focus is on quality over quantity.

“We love the fact the region has many small, quality-focused producers with a lot of young energy,” says Edward Donaldson, marketing manager and member of the second generation at family-run Pegasus Bay. “We don’t have virtually any of the large multinational corporations you see elsewhere.”

North Canterbury has always been a rich agricultural region with farm-to-table fare that caters to Christchurch weekenders, but modern winemaking has only been going on here since the mid-1980s.

Like much of New Zealand, the region’s vinous history is start and stop. Vineyards were planted by newly patriated Frenchmen in the mid-19th century, but they never took off. It would be a century before winegrowing would take hold. An attempt to nurture an experimental row of grapevines outside the local agricultural college, Lincoln University, failed during the 1960s.

However, a lecturer in fruit production, David Jackson, teamed up with Czech winemaker Daniel Schuster to plant vineyards around the Christchurch area and teach seminars on winegrowing and winemaking.

By the late 1970s and early ’80s, the two, along with a group of ambitious wine growers that included the Donaldsons from what’s now Pegasus Bay, began to realize the potential of the North Canterbury region.

“We came here for the land, the gravels, the microclimates, the valley airflow, the shelter, the rain shadow and the river,” says Vic Tutton, co-owner of family-run winery The Boneline, which started in 1989 under the name Waipara West. “The incredible beauty was a bonus. There was the immense pull of this site. This valley has power of its own.”

North Canterbury has always had the right conditions for great wine: warm, sunny days, cool nights, long growing days, protection from the Southern Alps to the west and the Teviotdale Hills in the east, and that magical combination of clay and limestone.

On the other hand, tough, infertile soils, windy, dry conditions and occasional frosts mean vintage variation and low yields. The combination offers high-quality wines with regional character.

“There’s a bristling nature to [North Canterbury’s] sunshine, an edge to it,” says Smith. “Because you’ve always got wind, even in the middle of the summer. And you see it in the wines.

There’s a sense of energy and tension in them which I relate back to that feeling.” The North Canterbury wine region stretches 145 miles along the eastern Pacific coastline. It encompasses the inland, limestone strewn subregion of Waikari and the Bank Peninsula, and Canterbury Plains farther south.

But its most planted subregion by a longshot is Waipara Valley, where 90% of vines are located.

Dirty Talk

Ask a North Canterbury producer what’s so special about their region, and they’ll speak first and foremost about the soils.

“North Canterbury is one of the few winegrowing regions that has good clay/limestone soil, similar to Grand Cru Burgundy vineyards,” says Takahiro Koyama, owner/winemaker at both Koyama Wines and Mountford Estate.

The soil at Pegasus Bay, located on the valley floor south of the Waipara River, is termed “Glasnevin Gravels.”

It’s “a mix of gravelly stones and sandy loam left from an Ice Age glacier and the river itself,” says  Donaldson.

“The soils are low vigor, free draining, with a reflective quality warming the canopy during the day. Farther north, you also get these soils as well as clay on the foothills.”

The Pinot Noir from this part of North Canterbury tends toward a lighter, juicier, fruitier style than those north of the river, but some producers, like Pegasus Bay, craft a denser wine.

Riesling, another Pegasus specialty, offers distinct regional characters like oranges, ginger and white pepper and bright natural acidity, and can be made in a variety of styles.

North of the river, “Omihi” and “Awapuni” clay loam soils dominate. They contain several types of limestone.

Omihi is also composed of calcium carbonate deposits. Wines from these soils often show more fruit concentration, with greater texture and salinity.

“We believed that our soils and climate had potential to produce balanced wines with good texture and freshness,” says Penelope Naish, who purchased her Waipara winery, Black Estate, with winemaker partner Nicholas Brown in 2004. The pair converted the vineyards to organic and biodynamic farming.

This included the Netherwood Vineyard, one of pioneer Daniel Schuster’s original plantings. Black Estate now makes some of the region’s most contemporary wines. Naish wasn’t the only one drawn to the dirt of North Canterbury.

Seven years earlier, Sherwyn Veldhuizen and Marcel Giesen (of the large Marlborough family winery, Giesen), fresh from Europe, had a desire to make wine that, in Veldhuizen’s words, would be “in pure marine-derived limestone soil [and] that in quality, texture, flavor and longevity…speaks of where it is from.”

They gave themselves five years to find a perfect site. It took just six months in 1997, on a winding drive inland from Waipara amid the limestone boulders of the Weka Pass. Bell Hill was born.

It became the first of two vineyards in the dramatic hills of the Waikari subregion. The second, Pyramid Valley, was founded by American expats Mike and Claudia Weersing in 2000. It’s now owned by Sheth and Smith.

Bell Hill’s wines are precise, complex and Burgundian-influenced, while Pyramid’s are wild and soulful. Still, the two have much in common.

Both vineyards are farmed organically and biodynamically, and they’re planted at high density in clay over chalky limestone soils.

They craft small batches of hauntingly beautiful Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with pristine acidity, depth and expression that rival the world’s best. Waikari teeters at the edge of where viticulture is possible. Its altitude, exposure and lime-rich soils amplify all of what makes North Canterbury special, but also all that makes it challenging.

If the quality of Bell Hill and Pyramid Valley is anything to go by, it’s a subregion with enormous potential. It’s a trait that the North Canterbury region has in spades.

As vines age, so do their stewards. Their deeper understanding of their unique patch of dirt strengthens a region that already crafts some of New Zealand’s most thrilling wines.

Keep your eyes firmly on North Canterbury. It’s a masterpiece in the making.

The post This New Zealand Wine Region is ‘A Masterpiece in the Making’ appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Why do winemakers use clones?

In the late 19th century¹, phylloxera, a devastating insect that destroys vine roots, befell European vineyards and changed how growers planted and cultivated grapevines. Rather than propagate the vines by rooting a branch from a neighboring vine or cutting, growers grafted their European vines, called Vitis vinifera, onto rootstocks imported from America that were resistant to the pest.

This prompted mass replanting that required vast amounts of European vines to be grafted onto American rootstocks. Initially, some grafting² spread diseases. Both yields and quality of these newly planted, grafted vines varied. The need for reliability and consistency spurred several valuable vine breeding and propagation programs throughout Europe.

Massal versus clonal selection

Before and after phylloxera, European growers devoted to quality would select their best vines for propagation³. They’d observe vines for years, select them for particular traits and propagate the grouping, a  process known as massal selection. This is still practiced widely today.

But even carefully chosen, virus-free, sanitarily grafted vines had unpredictable traits, like variable yield or uneven ripening. So, researchers developed a new process. They took cuttings from vines with specific and desirable traits. They’d graft them, plant them and watch to see if they carried the desired traits.

If so, they’d propagate cuttings from those vines again through several generations. All the cuttings could be traced directly to the initial mother vine, and all shared the same DNA. Clonal selection was born.

The practice began in Germany during the 19th century, but was fully established by the 1920s⁴. Clonal selection is a slow, costly process that requires years of observation and propagation. It enables growers to plant vines with reliable and predictable traits.

The evolving aims of clonal selection in Pinot Noir

Initially, clonal selection allowed growers to ensure commercially viable yields for fussy varieties like Pinot Noir. But throughout the 20th century, the aims of clonal selection evolved in tandem with other preoccupations of the times.

When the official French clonal selection for Pinot Noir began in the 1950s⁵, the climate was cooler. Growers needed to ensure that grapes would ripen sufficiently, so they selected traits like good sugar accumulation and early ripening.

Later, once ripening was ensured, traits that improved wine quality like color, stability and tannin structure became important, too.

In Germany, where official clones had been developed much earlier, growers tended to prioritize Pinot Noir clones that grew in looser bunches on the vine, because those grapes were less susceptible to botrytis rot. By the late 1980s and ’90s, both French and German selections focused on aromatic intensity alongside previously selected traits.

France gets official with the Dijon clones

The first official French clones⁶ of Pinot Noir were released in 1971, numbered from 111 to 115. Under licensed production, they were guaranteed to be virus-free. Clones 114 and 115 are still widely used today.

The series 665 to 668, which contains the famous 667, was released in 1980; series 743, the famous 777, 778, 779 and 780 was released in 1981. In the late 1980s, clones 828, 871 and 943 debuted.

Collectively, they’re referred to as “Dijon clones,” after the French town in Burgundy. Available in the U.S. since 1987, the Dijon clones are now licensed to nurseries worldwide⁷. They’re prized for their reliability, structure and Burgundian origin.

According to the French Chamber of Agriculture⁸, 114 and 115 are appreciated for perfume and structure. Number 667 is known for aromatic and tannic finesse, while 777 offers a combination of finesse and power. Balance is the calling card of 828, and concentration and sometimes atypical aromas are hallmarks of 943.

Names, numbers and confusion

Long before these French selections were released⁹, California tried to ensure virus-free vines. Starting in the 1940s, Dr. Harold Olmo¹⁰ of the University of California, Davis, began to import Pinot Noir vines from France, Germany and Switzerland. He also selected cuttings in California from pre-Prohibition vineyards. His work would eventually morph into UC-Davis’s Foundation Plant Services (FPS)¹¹, founded in 1958.

As FPS evolved, methods to heat-treat cuttings were developed to make material virus-free. Cuttings imported from Europe and selected in California were heat-treated and propagated, then numbered as clones that farmers could buy.

Olmo’s oldest documented Pinot Noir import was a 1951 cutting from Pommard, a village in Burgundy¹². It was propagated and made available for planting as UCD4. Once antivirus heat-treatment became available, its offspring became UCD5 and UCD6. They were also found to contain viruses, however, so UCD91 was created from the original UCD4. All of them are known under their numbers, or as “Pommard.”

No wonder there is confusion.

In the 1960s, California used “clones” as a way to plant virus-free material, rather than to achieve specific traits. Nonetheless, Pommard is at the heart of many Pinot Noirs from California and Oregon, appreciated for its “intense fruit and spice¹³.” It’s a testament to Olmo’s pioneering work.

The other key clones from this period were UCD01A, UCD02A and UCD03A, which stemmed from the good-yielding and perfumed Wädenswil clones that Olmo imported from Switzerland in 1952. Another key clone, Mariafeld 2, came from a private nursery in Switzerland in 1966¹⁴. It became known as UCD17 and 23. It’s still used today, appreciated for its freshness and botrytis resistance.

Californian heritage: Martini, Mount Eden, Swan, Calera

The Martini clones¹⁵, UCD13 and UCD15, were selected by Olmo and winery owner Louis M. Martini in an experimental vineyard they planted in Carneros, with cuttings taken from a 1930s Niebaum-Coppola vineyard in Napa Valley.

Later selections became UCD66 and UCD75. However, massal selections were also taken in that experimental vineyard. Those became known as Martini selections, rather than isolated clones, yet another source of confusion.

Mount Eden selections stem from their namesake vineyard in the Santa Cruz Mountains. It was planted in 1943 by Martin Ray¹⁶ with cuttings taken from Paul Masson’s La Cresta vineyard planted in 1895–1896, which was itself planted from cuttings said to be straight from Burgundy. The selection is prized for its small berries and aromatic intensity. Only one clone was selected from Mount Eden by famous Russian River winemaker Meredith Edwards. It became UCD37.

Swan selections were taken from Joseph Swan’s vineyard in the Forestville area of Sonoma County, apparently a mix of Burgundian and Californian cuttings planted in 1969. The exact origins of the vines are shrouded in myth. The clone UCD97 was isolated there. Calera selections are from Josh Jensen’s Jensen vineyard planted on Mount Harlan, in San Benito County, in 1974¹⁷ . The origin of the cuttings is also rumored to be Burgundian.

Myths and mutations

One enduring myth about Pinot Noir is that it mutates more frequently than other varieties. Is there any truth to it?

“As far as I know, no scientific study has ever shown that a specific molecular mechanism would make Pinot more prone to mutations than other grape varieties,” says grape geneticist José Vouillamoz, Ph.D.

“Nevertheless, it is certainly one of the oldest grape varieties in the world, therefore it had plenty of time to accumulate somatic mutations and epigenetic modifications.”

Epigenetic modifications are how genes express themselves to their environment. For example, all flamingos have the same DNA, but depending on their food or environment, they can appear whitish, pale pink or bright pink¹⁸.

Pinot Noir has a similarly strong epigenetic response. The same clone planted in different vineyards can look distinctly different. The genes themselves haven’t changed, just their expression.

Before genetic identification was possible, scientists could only rely on observation. This is probably why they thought Pinot Noir was so mutation-happy, and it may also account for the variety of traits that Pinot Noir shows.

It also explains why clonal selection takes years of repropagation and observation before a clone can be certified. The same thinking gave rise to the idea that the heritage selections, with their long presence in California, must have mutated into something truly distinct. Until we genetically sequence them all, we won’t know.

Clones today—and tomorrow

Today, winemakers spend a lot of time weighing the pros and cons of clones, depending on the style of wine they want to make. It’s an imperfect science, however, because it encompasses so many variables.

“It is difficult to get a good feel for the true character of a clone when the site and the winemaker tend to make a strong impression,” says Nick Peay, of Peay Vineyards in Annapolis, California. “Not only is it exceedingly rare to taste a single clone out of a neutral barrel, [but] if the winemaker favors excessive ripeness, that will obscure the true character of the clone.”

Nick and his brother, Andy Peay, planted seven Pinot Noir clones and heritage selections in 1998. Today, they grow up to 13.

“Choices were just experiments, hunches, working with the best available information, limited though that may be,” says Nick.

Some wineries plant huge blocks of single clones in search of predictability and even ripening. Yet, such a mono-clonal practice can also mean a loss of diversity and resilience.

Other wineries prefer to plant a massal selection, or a mix of clones. Nigel Greening, owner of Felton Road Estate in Central Otago, New Zealand, planted his Cornish Point Vineyard with 18 different clone and rootstock combinations.

“Cornish Point is now 20 years old and we learned a lot from it, mainly that finding favorites is quite tricky,” he says. “We like different material for different reasons. [It gives] different flavors, different ripeness levels, different phenolic character.

“So, rather than asking what is best, you ask, what makes an interesting gang?”

In Burgundy, France, the Association Technique Viticole de Bourgogne (ATVB), an official agency of the agricultural chamber, has shifted its approach to clonal selection. Preserving biodiversity and adapting to climate change are key.

The ATVB scouts, observes and selects vines across Burgundy to find the widest diversity of positive characteristics. These include traits that were previously shunned, like slow sugar accumulation or high acidity.

Observed and propagated over years, these individual clones form part of ATVB’s grouped selections, graded into Pinot superieur with good, stable yields, versus less stable Pinot fin yields, and Pinot très fin, with very low yields. These clones are never sold individually, only as part of an ever-adapting selection.

Of course, today’s growers have several options. There are certified German, Swiss and Italian clones of Pinot Noir, too.

Do Clones Matter?

Clones are a huge viticultural achievement and play a significant role in modern winegrowing and also help to meet the challenges of climate change. Observation, diversity and the preservation of a wide gene pool are key.

Ultimately, clones are only one part of a vast matrix of elements that find their way into your glass. They only add to Pinot Noir’s infinite allure.

1. Robinson, J. and Harding, J., The Oxford Companion to Wine, Fourth Edition, Oxford University Press, Oxford, 2015
2. See same phylloxera entry but also Boidron, Robert, Le Livre du Pinot Noir, Lavoisier, Paris, 2016
3. Schöffling, Harald, Pioniere der Klon-Züchtung bei Weinreben in Deutschland, Schriften zur Weingeschichte Nr. 138, Wiesbaden, 2001
4. Schöffling, Harald, Pioniere der Klon-Züchtung bei Weinreben in Deutschland, Schriften zur Weingeschichte Nr. 138, Wiesbaden, 2001 – Ökonomierat Gustav Adolf Froelich was the first to observe, select, vegetatively propagate, replant and repropagate vines from a sinlge own-rooted high quality Silvaner vine in Edenkoben, Pfalz. The first clonal vineyard of these Silvaner clones was planted in 1900, the first clone was officially recognized in 1921 and registered in 1925.
5. Boidron, Robert, Le Livre du Pinot Noir, Lavoisier, Paris, 2016
6. Boidron, Robert, Le Livre du Pinot Noir, Lavoisier, Paris, 2016 all data on page 84 but also available via ENTAV/INRA
7. Haeger, John Winthrop, North American Pinot Noir, University of California Press, Berkeley 2004–page 137
8. Boidron, Robert, Le Livre du Pinot Noir, Lavoisier, Paris, 2016, table on pages 86/87
9. Haeger, John Winthrop, North American Pinot Noir, University of California Press, Berkeley 2004
10. Haeger, John Winthrop, North American Pinot Noir, University of California Press, Berkeley 2004
11. UC-Davis’s Foundation Plant Services
12. Nelson-Kluk, Susan, History of Pinot noir at FPS, FPS Grape Program Newsletter, October 2003
13. Haeger, John Winthrop, North American Pinot Noir, University of California Press, Berkeley 2004, page 139
14. Haeger, John Winthrop, North American Pinot Noir, University of California Press, Berkeley 2004, page 139
15. Haeger, John Winthrop, North American Pinot Noir, University of California Press, Berkeley 2004, pp 141-145
16. Mount Eden
17. Calera Wine
18. Technology Networks

The post A Wine Geek’s Guide to Pinot Noir Clones Around the World appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Combine the intense maritime influence with long hours of sunshine, crisp nights and some of the most southerly latitudes in the wine world, and you have a landscape perfectly suited to craft white wines of delicacy, finesse and freshness.

While New Zealand’s calling card is Sauvignon Blanc, the ruggedly beautiful nation produces whites from a plethora of other varieties. Read on to dive in.

Sauvignon Blanc

No variety is as synonymous with New Zealand than Sauvignon Blanc. In 2018, the grape accounted for a whopping 73% of the country’s wine production, and 86% of its total exports.

There’s an unmistakable, bombastic style produced here. It offers heady aromas of passionfruit, lime, pineapple, bell pepper, tomato leaf and grass, along with rapier-like acidity.

Though it’s made virtually everywhere in New Zealand, the vast majority of plantings are in Marlborough, at the northeast edge of the South Island. They’re spread across two subregions: the Wairau and the Awatere Valleys.

The Awatere, the more sea swept of the two, can produce a more herbaceous and less overtly fruity Sauvignon than the Wairau. But Marlborough’s overarching fruit-forward “Savvie B” style prevails just as often here.

Across New Zealand, regional differences are subtle but apparent: In Wairarapa, on the south end of the North Island, for example, more green vegetal characters are apparent, while in warmer Hawke’s Bay, the wines tend toward tropical. Ultimately, though, viticulture and winemaking choices have the final say.

Pick and press Sauvignon Blanc early from high-yielding vines with large leaf cover, without skins or stems, lees or oak influence, and you get the zingy, aromatic style that put New Zealand on the map.

But if you harvest it later from vines with low yields and a small canopy, ferment it in whole bunches with native yeast, in barrel and/or on its lees, a whole different beast emerges.

“Let’s face it, the majority of conventional [New Zealand] Sauvignon is heavily based on a narrow, rather shouty aromatic spectrum,” says Sam Weaver, winemaker for his own label, Churton, and for North Canterbury’s Mt. Beautiful winery. “Wines with good fruit weight, on the other hand, have intensity, balance and, most importantly, length of flavor.”

Mt. Beautiful 2018 12 Barrels Sauvignon Blanc (North Canterbury); $26, 93 points. On the restrained side, relatively speaking, this white offers attractive aromas of tangerine, lime blossom and honeysuckle, with just a suggestion of oak. The palate harmonizes texture with refreshment, echoing the nose, but adding white spice on the lengthy finish. The oak supports, adding weight, texture and complexity. Drink now–2028. Mt. Beautiful USA.

Nautilus 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough); $20, 91 points. This wine is a touch salty and flinty to start, which adds character to the notes of lemon-lime, gooseberry, pineapple rind, honeysuckle and green herbs wafting from the glass. A creamy yet chalky texture is woven with juicy fruit and prickly acidity, ending long and citrusy. Spicy Mexican or Thai cuisine has met its match. Negociants USA Winebow. Editors’ Choice.

Villa Maria 2019 Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough); $17, 91 points. This is a solid example of Marlborough Sauvignon that’s well-priced, easy to get your hands on, and from at great vintage. It strikes a lovely balance between fruit and herbal tones in the form of juicy lime, zingy gooseberry, crunchy snow pea and spicy green bell pepper. Michelle Wine Estates.

Chardonnay

Although it accounts for just 7% of the country’s total wine production, serious Chardonnay producers here are passionate about this versatile variety. As a result, bottlings are often of very high quality.

Three decades ago, when it was the country’s most planted wine grape, Chardonnay was made in a more overtly fruity and oaky style. Today, it’s fine, restrained and, in many cases, highly ageworthy.

“Chardonnay in New Zealand has seen a steady style evolution over several decades, but converging upon one main type, drawing most of its inspiration from the white wines of Burgundy,” says Michael Brajkovich, MW, winemaker at the historic Kumeu River Wines, west of Auckland, and one of New Zealand’s pioneers of both Chardonnay and the shift toward a more Burgundian style.

Chardonnay finds a happy home across the country, particularly at altitude and in the coastal areas of Hawke’s Bay in the North Island, which produces about a third of the nation’s bottlings. The style here, depending on site, ranges from fresh and fruity to rich and concentrated.

Elevated acidity and a leaner, more citrus-driven profile are found in examples from regions at the bottom of the North Island, like Wairarapa/Martinborough, and in South Island regions like Marlborough, Nelson, North Canterbury and Central Otago, where overall temps are cooler.

Neudorf, in Nelson, Felton Road in Central Otago, as well as Pyramid Valley and Bell Hill, in the limestone-strewn Waikari subregion of North Canterbury, have worked wonders with the world’s most well known white variety. Put them on your radar.

Pyramid Valley 2016 Lion’s Tooth Chardonnay (North Canterbury); $90, 95 points.  A bit more restrained and less fruit forward than its sister wine Field of Fire, this wine is nevertheless a beauty. Citrus zest hides beneath accents of rock and earth. The mineral-laden acidity feels pure as spring water and runs through the waxy texture of the palate. The endlessly long finish is steeped in citrus and minerals. Pyramid Valley Vineyards LLC.

Kumeu River 2018 Kumeu Village Hand Harvested Chardonnay (Kumeu); $22, 93 points. When compared with the almost severe austerity of this renowned Chardonnay producer’s upper-tier wines, this entry-level one is downright boisterous. Bright gold in hue, it billows melon and stone fruit with undertones of honey and sea salt. The palate crunches with crystalline acidity wrapped up in texture that is simultaneously slippery and powdery, with a long, salt-flecked finish. Drink now and over the next few years. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Editors’ Choice.

Craggy Range 2019 Kidnappers Vineyard Chardonnay (Hawkes Bay); $22, 90 points. This affordable Chardonnay, from one of New Zealand’s best known names, is intensely perfumed, a heady, musky combo of flower blossoms, peach cobbler, orange zest and ginger. The medium-weight palate is powdery in texture with a lovely freshness. It lacks some length and depth, and is a bit overpolished, but has plenty of appeal nonetheless. Kobrand.

Pinot Gris

Pinot Gris has only been a part of the New Zealand wine landscape since the 1990s, yet it’s one of the few white varieties other than Sauvignon Blanc to steadily increase in plantings and production. The third most planted variety in the nation, it makes up 6% of New Zealand’s total wine production.

Most Pinot Gris clones here originated in Germany, Switzerland and South Africa, and the wine style is closer to Alsace than Italy, which is why so many producers call it “Gris,” not “Grigio.”

New Zealand Pinot Gris is richer both in aromatics and texture than the lighter, more neutral Pinot Grigio style. It can be mouthfilling and off-dry, with bold baked pear, apple, honey and spice characteristics. This richer, riper style is prevalent in warmer North Island regions like Gisborne.

In the South Island, where the majority of Pinot Gris is grown, the wines walk a fresher, more delicate line. They’re less honeyed and unctuous, with more fresh fruit. But there are plenty of exceptions.

Swiss-born winemaker Hans Herzog crafts one of the country’s most interesting Pinot Gris at his winery, Hans Family Estate, in Marlborough. It’s a pulsing wine that’s rich and fruity, yet also dry, fresh and varietally expressive. He achieves this through the use of wild yeast and long contact with both skin and lees.

“This requires perfectly ripe, handpicked, immaculate fruit from low yields so no bad flavors are extracted during the long, cold soak,” says Herzog. “It’s a style that comes with high cost without a quick return on investment but suits our artisan winegrowing: small volumes of handcrafted wines.”

Pinot Gris is a young variety in New Zealand in need of dedicated, quality-focused producers like Herzog. When it receives love and a gentle touch, it’s well worth seeking out.

Hans Family Estate 2017 Pinot Gris (Marlborough); $37, 96 points. Swiss-born Hans Herzog’s Old World-style wines, made from his 26 organically farmed grape varieties, sing of both the land and the man. Ultralow yields and long skin contact make this amber wine—the color of a flaming, pink-tinted sunset—extraordinarily unique in New Zealand. The evocative nose smells like a summer evening: grilled nectarines and figs, honeysuckle, beeswax and warm stones. It’s gorgeously complex and mineral, with layers of flavor and texture. The alcohol is a touch high, but overall it pulses with energy, unfurling over time and proving Pinot Gris capable of greatness Down Under. Drink now–2030. Cape Ardor-LLC. Editors’ Choice.

Huia 2019 Pinot Gris (Marlborough); $19, 90 points. This is a lovely, dry example of Marlborough Pinot Gris without too much winemaking trickery. A delicately perfumed nose of honeysuckle, hibiscus and pear leads to a palate that is textural yet refreshing, expressing the variety’s gentle floral and orchard fruit characters. A touch of bitterness at the finish distracts slightly, but overall this is a solid bottling of this style from a sensitive producer. USA Wine West.

Waipapa Bay 2019 Pinot Gris (Marlborough); $15, 88 points. A fruity, floral number bursting with honeyed pears, cantaloupe, white flower blossoms and a sprinkle of salt. It’s slippery in the mouth but not overtly creamy, with a bright line of fruit and flowers through the front and midpalate, but veering toward bitterness at the back. Nevertheless, this is an appealing alternative to those who don’t dig the greenness of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. MHW, Ltd.

Other White Wines

The diversity of New Zealand’s winegrowing regions means that a wide range of grape varieties can grow, like Viognier, Grüner Veltliner and Albariño. The long, cool growing season of the South Island is suited to aromatic varieties, while the North can ripen fleshier, warmer climate whites.

One white that shows promise is Riesling. Producers that grow this Germanic variety make everything from delicate, bone-dry and citrus-driven wines to lusciously sweet and complex bottlings. Parts of North Canterbury, an exciting region to watch for all manner of varieties, seems particularly suited to it, and producers like Pegasus Bay are renowned.

The arid Central Otago landscape gives Canterbury a run for its money with pristine, beautifully aromatic Riesling. Rippon winery, on the breathtaking shores of Lake Wanaka, makes a wild and complex version.

Another resurgent variety is Chenin Blanc, the versatile grape with a fiercely loyal following. Chenin’s ability to produce terroir-driven varietal wines has made it a top choice for artisanal producers like James Millton, whose Gisborne-based winery on the North Island was also at the forefront of biodynamics in the Pacific region.

Millton’s Chenin grows on silt loam with clay undersoil, which gives the fragrant, complex wines what he describes as a “lanolin texture and clipped acid finish.”

In Hawke’s Bay, Millton says, “some interesting vineyards are planted [in] gravel, like at Esk Valley. And farther south, there are plantings on limestone, such as Black Estate [in North Canterbury] and Amisfield [in Central Otago].

“By and by, Chenin Blanc is taking up more of our vineyard lands, such is the pleasure it delivers,” he says. “The other white varieties I am embracing, in this lifetime at least, are Savagnin, Petit Manseng and, with the interest in amphora, we have also planted Mtsvane. One day, I will just keep it simple.”

Millton 2017 Te Arai Vineyard Chenin Blanc (Gisborne); $33, 97 points. Gorgeously textured, swinging between unctuousness and freshness, this is a soulful wine from New Zealand’s godfather of biodynamics, James Millton. Millton’s reputation for Chenin Blanc is equally mighty, and this honey-hued beauty lives up to it in every way. Highly aromatic, like a flower garden, with heady scents of jasmine, hyacinth and lavender combining with raw honeycomb, guava and pineapple rind. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. Editors’ Choice.

Pegasus Bay 2015 Riesling (Waipara); $31, 92 points. This Riesling, with a slight bit of bottle age on it, is radiant yellow in hue with intense aromas of honey, florals, ginger candy and pineapple billowing from the glass. The palate is off-dry, the sweetness adding an opulence and richness to the wine. A line of pristine acidity balances it nicely. It’s lacking in depth of flavor and a sense of place, but is nonetheless a noble crack at a difficult style, from a winery well-known for crafting long-lived Riesling. Drink now–2030 and maybe beyond. Empson USA Ltd.

Jules Taylor 2018 Grüner Veltliner (Marlborough); $18, 91 points. Pale gold in hue, this wine offers a perfume of pineapple and lemon juice flecked with herbs and honey. Highly textural, the oily mouthfeel is buoyed by tangy fruit and finishes on a spicy note. Try this alongside rich dishes like risotto or buttery lobster. Maritime Wine Trading Collective.

The post New Zealand’s White Wines Span Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and, Yes, Sauvignon Blanc appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

With no vineyard further than 80 miles from the ocean, New Zealand’s maritime climate, cool nights and long hours of sunshine mean many of its wines are refreshing, with bright fruit, heady aromatics and abundant acidity.

These characteristics apply to New Zealand’s unmistakable, gregarious Sauvignon Blanc. But New Zealand’s diverse climate, soil and topography also delivers muscular reds, long-lived Chardonnay, traditional-method sparkling wines, Riesling of all shapes and sizes, as well as myriad other aromatic styles.

The main wine regions in New Zealand

New Zealand comprises 11 official wine regions, which received legal recognition in the form of geographical indications (GIs) in 2018. Small regions like Gisborne and Auckland in the North Island, and North Canterbury and Nelson in the South, are where some of the nation’s artisanal and creative winemaking takes place. Here, they grow relatively uncommon varieties with exciting promise like Chenin Blanc and Grüner Veltliner, as well as more traditional plantings like Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The most prominent wine regions in New Zealand are Marlborough, Central Otago, Hawke’s Bay and Wairarapa.

Marlborough

Tucked into the northeast corner of South Island, with nearly 50,000 acres planted to grapevines, Marlborough is New Zealand’s largest wine region. It accounts for two-thirds of the country’s plantings, which includes the vast majority of New Zealand’s Sauvignon Blanc. The variety thrives in Marlborough’s abundant sunshine, cool nights and relatively fertile, free-draining soils.

“I like to think of Marlborough and Sauvignon Blanc as a lucky accident, or perhaps an educated punt, that resulted in something that was unique in the wine world,” says winemaker Anna Flowerday. She and her husband, Jason, own Te Whare Ra, where Marlborough’s oldest vines reside.

“Sauvignon from here tastes like nowhere else in the world,” says Flowerday. “It captures the amazing long sunlight hours in the fabulous array of thirst-slaking flavors, and our diurnal range contributes to the ripe, mouthwatering acidity.

“If you want Turangawaewae, [the Maori word for] a sense of the place, then Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has that in spades.”

Marlborough’s three main subregions are the Southern Valleys, Wairau Valley and Awatere Valley. The former has heavier clay soils, while the Wairau Valley is on an old gravelly riverbed with stony, skeletal soils. Both produce tropical versions of Sauvignon Blanc with passionfruit and grass flavors.

Awatere borders the Pacific Ocean and Kaikoura mountains. Its elevation and cooler, drier climate produce more herb-flecked Sauvignon Blanc, often with notes of salt, tomato leaf and jalapeño.

There’s more to Marlborough than Sauvignon Blanc, of course. Subregions with heavier soils, like Southern Valleys, are home to Pinot Noir, the quality of which has evolved in tandem with the area’s viticulture. These Pinot Noirs are increasingly structured, but still offer plenty of bright red berry fruit.

Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewürztraminer also find happy homes in Marlborough’s cool, maritime climate. “Aromatic whites are arguably the unsung heroes of Marlborough,” says Flowerday, who makes five wines from these three varieties.

Central Otago

Central Otago produces just 3% of New Zealand’s wine, most of which is world-class Pinot Noir. The region’s rugged terrain includes snow-capped mountains, arid hills and river gorges. It has New Zealand’s highest elevation and most continental climate, though vineyards are still less than 150 miles from the sea.

Otago’s autumns are dry with low humidity, and its summers are short and hot. Winters bring frost and, occasionally, snow. These conditions, along with old, windblown loess, river gravel and sandy soils, create wines with both structure and finesse.

Pinot Noir comprises 80% of Central Otago’s plantings, and styles vary by subregion. Expect vibrant Pinot Noir from lakeside sites in Wanaka, elegant iterations from the elevated vineyards of Gibbston and powerful Pinots from warmer sites like Bannockburn or Bendigo. Otago’s diversity is an asset. Producers have the freedom to craft both single-site wines as well as blends.

“It’s like questioning whether there is one clear Burgundy style, taking into account Chablis to Maconnais and everything in between, as Central Otago vineyards can be up to 100 kilometers [62 miles] apart with different climates, soils and major geographic features separating them,” says Grant Taylor, owner/winemaker at Valli Vineyards. “The diversity in styles means there will be a wine from Central Otago that most people will enjoy.”

Pinot may rule in these parts, but winemakers here also produce Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, both crackling with the region’s natural acidity. A smattering of aromatic varieties like Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer also make appearances, as does some rosé. But perhaps the most exciting Pinot alternative produced in the region are its traditional-method sparkling wines. Sadly, due in part to high production costs, little of it is made, and even less exported to the U.S. If you see it, snap it up.

Hawke’s Bay

The first vines planted in Hawke’s Bay date to 1851, which makes it New Zealand’s oldest wine region. The country’s second-largest region, it produces about 10% of New Zealand’s wine.

Hawke’s Bay is located on the eastern side of North Island between the Pacific Ocean and the inland Kaweka mountains. It has 25 soil types, from free-draining gravel and stone laced with red metal, to loamy clay, limestone or sand.

Temperatures are on the warmest side of cool-climate viticulture, but abundant sunshine means a long growing season. It’s warm enough to ripen the red varieties that the region is most known for: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. In addition, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris ripen well on the coast, hillsides and in river valleys.

Hawke’s Bay’s most famous wine growing district, Gimblett Gravels, is one of the only districts outside of Europe designated by soil type, not geographic location. At nearly 2,000 acres, its alluvial soils are a mix of coarse sand, stone and gravel known as greywacke, deposited onto the plains after a massive flood from the nearby Ngaruroro River in the 1860s.

This unique soil provides excellent drainage and low vine vigor. That, plus the area’s considerable diurnal temperature range, creates powerful red wines such as Merlot-dominated Bordeaux-style blends and, to a lesser extent, Syrah, with stony character, distinctive tannin structures and pure fruit flavors.

Hawke’s Bay’s most planted variety, however, is Chardonnay.

“Chardonnay is very comfortable in Hawke’s Bay,” says Nick Picone, chief winemaker at Villa Maria Wines. He’s based in Hawke’s Bay and heads up the company’s North Island winemaking. “There is enough heat for it to fully ripen, but it’s also cool enough to retain beautiful natural acidity, flavor and freshness. You could call Hawke’s Bay ‘Goldilocks’ for Chardonnay.”

Wairarapa

Wai means water in Maori, so many places in New Zealand, particularly in wine regions, begin with the word. There’s Waipara Valley in North Canterbury, the Wairau Valley in Marlborough, and the Waitaki Valley in North Otago.

Wairarapa is located on the North Island, an hour east of New Zealand’s capital, Wellington. Technically, it consists of three subregions, Gladstone, Masterton and Martinborough. The latter is so well known, helped in part by the region’s historic town center with which it shares a name, that many wine drinkers are familiar with Martinborough, but not Wairarapa.

Wairarapa produces just 1% of the nation’s wines, primarily Pinot Noir. It occupies a dry, windswept valley near the Ruamahanga River and is protected by the Rimutaka and Tararua ranges to the west.

The occasional spring frost and southerly winds result in low yields of thick-skinned fruit that produce concentrated wines with structure and personality. Wairarapa Pinot Noirs can be elegant yet powerful, mineral and spice-driven with sinewy tannins and the capacity to age for more than a decade.

“Martinborough produces Pinot Noir that is distinct from this region,” says Helen Masters, head winemaker at one of the region’s founding wineries, Ata Rangi. “Other varieties may produce great wines year to year, but the voice is not as clear and defined as it is with Pinot Noir. No matter who the producer is, it is as though [the wines] have been painted with the same brush, savory rather than fruit driven, with length defined by very fine tannins.”

Wairarapa also produces distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. It’s bright and boisterous like its Marlborough counterpart, but often more textural and mineral-driven. Chardonnay and Viognier, plus aromatic whites like Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer, make appearances, as does rosé. Wairarapa also occasionally produces spicy, heady Syrah.

The post Sauvignon Blanc and Beyond: A Regional Guide to New Zealand Wine appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Christina Pickard: Hi and welcome to the Wine Enthusiast podcast, your serving of wine trends and passionate people beyond the bottle. I’m Christina Pickard, the contributing editor here at Wine Enthusiast for Australia and New Zealand. In this episode I’ll be chatting to Christopher Tanghe, an award-winning master sommelier, and the chief instructor for the international educational organization GuildSomm. We’ll be talking all about New Zealand wines—other than Sauvignon Blanc.

New Zealand may be known for its boisterous Sauvignon, but this beautiful new world country is far from a one-trick pony. In this episode, Chris and I will cover some well-known varieties as well as some surprises. We’ll also reveal some of our favorite New Zealand wines and styles, and we highlight three wines highly rated in the Wine Enthusiast buying guide.

Christopher thanks so much for talking to me today. I know you’re a busy, globetrotting, wine-educating guy so I really appreciate you taking the time today.

Christopher Tanghe: Yeah, no problem. Happy to be here, for sure.

CP: You were recently in New Zealand and you’ve been teaching some classes through GuildSomm on New Zealand wines, is that correct?

CT: We will be in early 2020.

CP: Oh, really?

CT: So, this trip was to go and learn about the region and taste a wider array of wines to prepare for that class which will be starting in, uh, probably February of 2020.

CP: Cool. That’s very exciting. So, New Zealand! Let’s dive in. It is a big Sauvignon Blanc-producing country.  It’s a country that’s really kind of carved its reputation off that grape variety. It’s still, I don’t even know the exact percentage, but something like between 70%–80% of all wines come from this grape variety, majority of the production comes from Marlborough.

But we’re going to talk today about everything but Sauvignon Blanc, because that does get a lot of coverage—and rightly so, because there is so much made—but there’s so much more out there. And we’ll start with the great variety that is played the second-most known, which is Pinot Noir. And even though it is a grape variety that has that really has a great reputation within New Zealand, it’s still relatively small production on the global scale. But I think what does get produced from that grape variety is just of such enormous quality, and I hope that you also found that when you were there?

CT: Yeah absolutely. I will say, just before we dive into that real quickly…

CP: Sure.

CT: Just one little anecdote about Sauvignon Blanc, because I think it’s really important and it’s something that really moved me when I was there was that I think the bulk of the kind of identity of what people think of in Sauvignon Blanc is that it’s kind of that porch-pounder, coffer-type style, right? And that it always has to be loud, kind of jalapeño, you know that super ripe, piercing style which—yes, that style obviously is very prevalent and important to the image of New Zealand and of Sauvignon Blanc, but there’s also a whole host of other examples that are really pushing the boundaries of what people of that image.

And I think that in the years down the line, we’re going to see New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc definitely being confused and blind tastings for other famous regions of Sauvignon Blanc in the world. So, I’ll just leave it at that.

CP: Agreed. That’s a very good point. I completely agree. It’s certainly not as much of a one-trick pony, as it’s…You know, as people think it is. Yeah, it’s an exciting category, I think, and more so than, than it’s given credit for amongst the wine community. So glad you pointed it out.

CT: Yeah. And, you know, with Marlborough in particular, I think that there is so much cool stuff going on there too, of course within Sauvignon Blanc, but outside of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir being one of them. But also, you know, sparkling wines as well are really, really exciting coming out of there, and one of the most prominent sparkling wine producers, No. 1 Estate, is based there and also varieties that no one ever thought could get ripe there.

You know, I was talking to a number of prominent producers that kind of focus on Sauvignon Blanc, and they said, ‘Oh yeah, back in the 70s we had Cabernet Sauvignon planted. It wasn’t that silly.’ And then you go to taste the lines of Hans Herzog…

CP: Yeah.

CT: And that like totally shatters all, you know, preconceptions of what should be grown and what can be grown.

CP: Yeah. Hans Herzog being, yeah, being one of these producers that just experiments, and plants everything, and so much of it works so well doesn’t it?

CT: Yeah. I mean you look at his vineyard map, you know like what’s planted where, and what block, and it’s bananas.

CP: I know.

CT: There’s just everything that you would never expect. I mean from, you know, Italian to Spanish to, you know, obscure French varieties, and then you’re like, ‘Oh, man, this is gonna be a train wreck, you know,’ and then you sit down and you taste the lines you’re like, ‘Wow, these are really, really interesting and well-made and delicious, and yeah, maybe they don’t taste always like, you know, the classic regions from which they’re from, but they’re still delicious.’

And a number of them do taste like they should from a classic region. So, you know, not that everything has to taste like classic, but it was just really eye-opening, and I think you know that was one of the label moments for me, looking at other varieties and saying you know, well, there’s a lot of potential here.

CP: Yeah, I think that’s exactly the right word, potential. And I think that’s sometimes it’s a little bit frustrating, I think even for the winemakers themselves, because you know you’ll taste the odd Riesling, and Chenin Blanc, and sparklings, and go, ‘Why aren’t you making more of this? You do it so well!’ And they kind of go, ‘Uh, Sauvignon Blanc.’

You know, I think that they even feel a little bit stuck within this sort of mono-variety called, you know, it’s a country that has just built such a reputation off of one grape variety, you know, more so than probably anywhere else in the New World, anyway, just in terms of such a massive amount of what they produce is from this one variety. But, you know, there’s so much potential down there, and I think that, you know, it is changing a little bit, slowly, but I mean that’s partly why I wanted to do this podcast episode: to get people to know that, you know, there’s more out there!

And, yes, use New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc as a springboard, right, as a sort of gateway to also explore these other varieties because the more that we drink them and buy them and talk about them, I think the more that then producers will maybe be given a little bit more liberty, by the powers that be, to say, ‘Hey, can we, you know, try that Riesling that worked so well? Can we maybe you know try that again this year? Up the production or whatever because it’s some,’ yeah, it’s such a blank canvas in a lot of ways.

There’s so much more that they could be doing there in terms of these other varieties, other cool climate varieties in particular. Anyway, we have digressed. Let’s focus on Pinot Noir for a little while.

CT: Sure.

CP: I want to just use this one wine that is in our buying guide, and so listeners can kind of go back to the WineMag.com website and go back to our buying guide and get my review and a little bit more of my take on it, but also, you know, to use as a launchpad to explore other wines, other Pinots from New Zealand, from this region and from others.

So, the one we’re going to start talking about is Escarpment, and the specific wine you can find in the buying guide as the 2017 Kiwa single-vineyard from Martinborough. And I gave it 95 points. It’s $60, so we’re not talking an everyday, you know, these wines we’re gonna recommend today are not everyday drinking wines but, you know, I thought, look, let’s talk about the good stuff and talk about why these guys are really leading, leading the game. And then, you know, we can give you alternatives.

Are you familiar with Escarpment, I should say first? You know this wine, this producer?

CT: I am, yeah. Yeah, I went there and met with Larry McKenna, and what I thought of Martinborough before going there was, was way different. It’s actually a really concentrated and dense growing region. And it’s not kind of as vast as a lot of the others, and kind of, for whatever reason, the image in my head I had it being like a lot bigger. But it’s essentially like this super cute little town that’s all based on the square, that has a lot of similarities to Sonoma Square, but it’s smaller and everyone knows each other, and it’s all about Pinot Noir for the most part.

I mean you talk about, you know, mono-varietal kind of wine culture, it’s like that here, but with Pinot Noir for the most part. There are outliers, of course: some really great like Alsace varieties, Germanic varieties from Dry River in particular, but Pinot Noir is the name of the game, and they’re all being produced there at a really, really high level, for sure.

CP: Yeah, I agree. I also had the same impression the first time I was in Martinborough, which, confusingly, we should say that the region is actually the Wairarapa, and this can get very confusing in New Zealand, because there’s a lot of “wais”, and the Wairarapa is the region that includes two other subregions there. But really Martinborough kind of dominates there, and geographically we’re talking about just…What is it, like an hour, hour and a half outside of Wellington? Down these, like, crazy nausea-inducing roads. Did you drive there, or did you take the train?

CT: I did, I drove, yeah. I drove from there to Wellington. It was so fun. I had a little, like, you know, SUV, and I was wishing I had a Porsche or something. The roads are just magnificent. There’s actually still snow up there on the roads, too…

CP: Wow. Oh, wow.

CT: Because I was there, you know, at the height of winter essentially. So, I think that’s also something people maybe don’t realize is that the, you know, the whole spine of the Alps is really, really, influential for all of these regions because a lot of the weather comes up from the Antarctic. And for these sites, if you didn’t have that spine of the Alps there, it wouldn’t…you know, viticulture just wouldn’t be possible.

CP: Absolutely. They provide kind of a rain shadow. Same in Otago with the Southern Alps down there too.

CT: Yeah, a range that, but also like a windbreak more so.

CP: Although Martinborough is still so windy. Was it windy when you were there?

CT: It was, yeah. It wasn’t crazy windy but, yeah, they definitely talked about that.

CP: They talk about it a lot. They talk about it a lot. But no, I agree, it is a small region and, you know, considering how much attention the wine world pays to, to it, you know, I also considered it being you know a much bigger region. Because, you know, we’re taught, I remember like way back with the WSETs being taught, you know, that Martinborough was just a major Pinot Noir region in the New World, and it still is, and rightfully so. And like you say, the level is so high, but it’s actually so small: there’s such a small, you know, tiny amount of producers you can bike to 80% of them or something within…

CT: Absolutely. Yeah.

CP: Five minutes.

CT: And that’s a big part of the wine tourism there is renting these bikes for people to cruise around. And it’s also not only small by its geographical footprint: it’s also small by viticultural pressures there. So, you know, average yield for Pinot Noir is three tons: not per acre, per hectare, okay?

So, for your listeners that you need that in perspective, essentially, because we generally talk about tons per acre in the U.S., you know, a hectare is 2.5 acres, essentially 2.47 to be technical. So, when you look at the yield spread across, you know, that larger footprint of land it’s nothing. It’s so hard to make that pencil out. But they do it because they love it. And also, it lends itself to really high quality. You know, you don’t have to have low yields to have high quality, but with Pinot Noir in particular it really does make a difference, and that’s because of the pressures of their climate and their soil, but their climate is mainly for, for these low yields which is pretty remarkable.

CP: Yeah, and they talk about the thick skins, a lot of the berries there too, so how does that, I’m interested. I mean I have an idea of the style of Pinot that I see from this region. I think it’s a really distinctive style; often when I’m, you know, all the wines I’m tasting in the office are blind, and often when I’m doing a flight from there I kind of know, you know? I have a suspicion like, ‘Oh I think this is Martinborough for a Pinot because it’s got such a distinctive tannin profile, and such a spiciness.’ But how do you how do you find it, stylistically?

CT: Yeah, I would agree. I think that overall, they tend to be a little more muscly with tannin. They also tend to be kind of a little more perfumed and elegant at the same time. When you compare it to certain parts of Otago those tend to be, because they’re a bit more protected there, the wines tend to be a little bit more plush. Whereas I feel like Martinborough is a little bit more perfumed, and not quite as ripe as you would see in Central Otago generally. But, yeah tannin is I think first and foremost the quality that jumps out to me most. Which also makes sense because of the high wind pressure and all of that.

CP: Yeah. Those things can, and yeah I always describe them as sinewy or leathery. They’re just, they’re very they’re a bit of a tough tannin, and often those wines need they’re meant for cellaring, you know, and the price points reflect that too. Can I ask you, just because we’re going to move on, just to give us, and this is a hard task, I know,  but just to give us just a Cliff’s Notes on some of the other producing, Pinot-producing regions? So, let’s say on Marlborough and Central Otago, Central Otago probably being the most well-known, on how you see… You touched on a little bit, but the style differences there, and then I just wanted to name some, some of my favorite producers from those regions and yours as well.

CT: Mm hmm, yeah. Also I would say Wairarapa, or Canterbury, would also be kind of, I think, well, it’s now not as well-known because there’s just not a critical mass of producers there yet.

CP: Yeah.

CT: There’s still some really amazing wines being produced most notably from Bell Hill. I really enjoyed those wines a lot. Two Paddocks, and probably the most well-known, Felton Road. But you know, Felton Road for me has always been a little bit of a roller coaster over the years, in terms of you know how I like the wines. And man, when I was there recently they were just all on fire. So, I don’t know if it’s just my own, you know, changing or if the wines have changed or not but man, they were just so, so good this time around.

CP: And Marlborough, you know, for a long time Marlborough had the reputation of producing much fruitier Pinot. I mean, this is the New World. So, you are going to get more fruit-forwardness than you are than in Burgundy, for example, and it’s different soils as well than in Oregon. So, you are going to get more fruit-forwardness, but I think Marlborough has long had a reputation of being the fruitiest of the Pinot-producing regions.

But I’ve actually found recently that particularly with some of the producers who are working maybe in a more European style, like Clos Henri, for example, in Marlborough, it can be hard to tell the difference sometimes, between like Otago and Marlborough. So, and I guess I mean that as a compliment to Marlborough, that the wines are just getting more interesting, where I always kind of associated Otago as being the one with like a little more complexity, a little more like floral and savory and earthy notes. And now I’m seeing more of that from Marlborough. I don’t know. What were your thoughts?

CT: Yeah, I think, you know, if you taste, of course, Clos Henri wines are incredible, all across the board and also Mahi, I really enjoyed his Pinot Noir quite a bit. And I think that, yeah, I would agree they’re getting more in line with stylistically but really, it’s about finding, it’s about site more so than anywhere. Well, more so than Otago, just because they’re so exposed there in Marlborough. And so, I think that’s a big part of it for them is finding the right places and, yes, fine age but also clone is I found making a big difference, too, in terms of the finish style.

I think clones are important and not important at the same time. I think, you know, initially, they make a big impact, and then there’s really no substitute for time in the ground because a vine will adapt and change, and the base material will have lesser and lesser influence as time goes on. So, you know, the big thing for a lot of lot of these regions, and more so in the north and in the south, is the Abel clone. Which, for me, has a lot of similarities to,  if anyone’s had, like, Wädenswil, which is a Swiss clone grown a lot in Oregon.

But I often get this kind of citrus-y type character on the wine, like blood orange, or pink grapefruit, or things like that. And for me, I was seeing especially in the younger plantings like that was the bigger influencer than maybe, not bigger, but as big as the climate as well. But, yeah, I would agree that Marlborough has really come a long way with, with Pinot. Some of them were still a little bit too “savory” for me, you know, depending on the vintage and the site. But in the right site they can definitely be just as good as Otago, and I think in terms of stylistically, probably more acid driven than Otago. And for me, overall less spicy is what I kind of my impressions were.

CP: So let’s move on now to Chardonnay, another really big topic that it’s hard to just rush through. Chardonnay is not as prominent in New Zealand as it is in Australia, for example, where it’s the most-grown grape variety, and it’s huge in Australia. But it is important in New Zealand and those, you know, like anywhere with Chardonnay because it’s such a blank slate of a grape variety, it is being made in all different ways, so it’s really hard to say ‘This is the style of sharing me in New Zealand.’

CT: Yeah. You know, I’ve tasted a lot of Chardonnay and I’ve liked the majority of it. I think that you do you do still see a few of those, like, really opulent, kind of forward, oaky, flash-ripe styles. But for the most part, yeah it’s, they’re figuring it out. I mean you have you know icons like Kumeu, you know, kind of setting the stage for what Chardonnay in New Zealand should be. And I think a lot of people have looked to them, and of course to other, other producers outside of the country and both Australia, California, and obviously Burgundy. There’s a lot of Burgurdian influence for sure, and a lot of winemakers that have had the opportunity because of the opposite hemisphere to go work in a lot of Northern Hemisphere places that specialize in Chardonnay.

But so, I think they’re making a lot of strides very quickly, in terms of making top-notch Chardonnay. And some ones that come to mind right away would be to Te Whare Ra in Marlborough is really, really good, again, Bell Hill, and also Neudorf in Nelson, which is a region that I think isn’t given enough attention. Yeah those are the ones that kind of pop out right away.

CP: Yeah. Dry River is a good one.

CT: Yeah. Dry River, of course.

CP: Te Whare Ra, I love that you mentioned Te Whare Ra, or TWR, because their aromatic whites just across the board are just awesome. Like they do a beautiful, beautiful Riesling and Pinot Gris and, yeah, they’re great. So, I’m glad that you mentioned them. So, the wine I threw at you for this specific wine, Pyramid Valley, I was like, that could go either way. It’s a winery that I’ve adored for years and of course, we’ll talk in a second about the transition with Pyramid Valley now but it, you know, I think it’s, it’s long been a wine geeks’ wine. But, you know, it’s definitely not for everybody. What are your feelings on Pyramid Valley?

CT: Yeah, I feel like over the years I’ve either really loved the wine, or been confused by the wine. And I’ve never disliked them, it’s just kind of like, ‘Huh, that’s kind of a little crazy.’ But I think that the whole region is just really exciting for both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

CP: Yeah, I agree. It’s so just, geographically again to get your bearings, so this is North Canterbury, or Waipara, just north of Christchurch. Like 45 minutes north. So, it’s pretty close. And the Pyramid Valley area, it’s actually the area, as well as the name of the wine, is kind of like off sort of on its own a little. I think it’s west of North Canterbury, isn’t it? And you when you drive in it’s,  I mean, it’s only like 15 minute drive or something, but it’s like these giant limestone boulders, right? I was driving in like, ‘Oh my god, this is something from another world.’ And also, just my thought was, ‘Why isn’t this all just covered in vines?’

CT: Yeah.

CP: It just felt like, wow. We’re at the beginning of something, right? This should be this should be much more planted than it is. But the two wineries that have been there, and are making wine from there, is Bell Hill and Pyramid Valley and both of those are just such incredible producers.

So I know it’s kind of wanky now in the wine world to talk about like tasting terroir in wine, but these wines to me, the Pyramid Valley wines to me, they may not be polished and perfect but they’re always so expressive and soulful, and I guess that’s why I wanted to talk about them today because, you know, they’re tiny producers, they’re going to be less tiny. So, the new owners: the Aotearoa New Zealand Fine Wine Estates have taken them over and they have some, you know, some plans in the works to expand, and they’re going to be sourcing some grapes from Otago. So they’re going to be different wines in the future, so I think it’s really cool now if you can get your hands on the Mike and Claudia [Weersing] wines, and then in a few years get the, you know, the current wines, and just to see the difference and to see it’s just an interesting experiment.

CT: So, the wine that you picked, Field of Fire, which is absolute fire in the glass is so good, it’s actually my favorite of the of the lineup of Chardonnay that they do. So, they have the Field of Fire, and then they also have the Lion’s Tooth.

CP: Yes.

CT: And for me the Field of Fire was the one. It was just — they’re both good, but the Field of Fire was just like… It had some kind of New World, almost like verging on tropical elements, but they’re all like far tropical, and like just enough of that tropical-ness to give it like a lovely another layer of complexity on top of the classic citrus, tree fruit, etc. But also, it had like this herbal component that I really love, too, that was this it made it just savory enough to be like, ‘Hmm. If I was tasting this blind, where would it be from?’ You know, it’s kind of a complex, definitely complex, wine in that way.

CP: Totally agree. And you already mentioned Kumeu river: another excellent Chardonnay producer who are kind of a little bit off on their own north of Auckland but those are much more classic style wines, and can be very long-lived wines, but those are definitely worth getting a hold of.

Let’s move rapidly on, as we run out of time, to Syrah. We’re going to talk about Te Mata here to start, and then we can talk about the Gimblett Gravels because Te Mata, I don’t believe, and I could be wrong, maybe you can correct me here, are not really in the Gimblett Gravels there. They have more sort of sandy loam over sandstone, and over clay. So, I don’t think that they are a Gimblett Gravels?

CT: No. So, and actually where this wine originally was being sourced from was Bridge Pa — the triangle is actually outside of Gimblett Gravels. It’s like, I believe , well, what direction is that? I think it’s north and west a little bit?

CP: Okay.

CT: And it’s kind of, it’s outside like all that kind of “popular,” you know, famous regions of Hawke’s Bay. But these are coming from super old vines that are the second oldest in the country for a Syrah. And now they are blending it with other sites in Gimblett Gravels. So yeah, like killer, killer cool climate Syrah.

And with Hawke’s Bay it’s, I would say, like I talked about diversity before, this is probably one of the most diverse regions in all of the country. Just because of the landscape,  you can get really close to the sea here in terms of planting, or you can be tucked up into the hills. And there’s all these offshoots of the hills that kind of create these special terroirs that are, in some cases, quite a bit warmer. And then you pair that with the soils, like Gimblett Gravels is just that. And, you know, just these big alluvial fans of influences from rivers over the years, and they’re super deep. I mean, some areas this gravel goes way, way down, like 15 feet.

CP: What’s kind of cool about Gimblett Gravels, too, is that it’s one of the only New World wine regions where the boundaries of the region are actually demarcated from soil type. I think that’s a good spot, a good place to wrap things up. This is — we covered a lot of ground, right? It’s a big conversation in New Zealand; it’s a really exciting wine making country, and there’s so much more out there even within the Sauvignon Blanc category. And I was glad that we at least were able to scratch the surface of some of the other amazing varieties and regions and winemakers that are out there and worth seeking out. So, thank you Chris. I appreciate you sharing a little sliver of your immense knowledge of the wine world with us.

CT: Any time. Happy to do so. Thanks for having me.

CP: Thanks for listening to this episode of the Wine Enthusiast podcast. We hope we inspired you to pick up a bottle of New Zealand Pinot, Chardonnay, or Syrah. Here are the three recently reviewed wines that were mentioned in the episode: Escarpment 2017 Kiwa single-vineyard from Martinborough, $60 and rated 95 points; Pyramid Valley 2016 Field of Fire from North Canterbury, $90 and rated 96 points; and Te Mata 2015 Bullnose from Hawke’s Bay, $40 and rated 91 points.

Subscribe to the Wine Enthusiast podcast on iTunes, Google Play, or wherever you find your podcasts. And if you like today’s episode, we’d so appreciate a five-star review and comment, and please tell your friends to check us out too. For more wine reviews, recipes, guides, and stories, visit Wine Enthusiast online at WineMag.com. The Wine Enthusiast Podcast is produced by Marina Vataj and Jenny Groza. Until next episode, cheers.

The post Wine Enthusiast Podcast: New Zealand Beyond Sauvignon Blanc appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.